February 7, 2011

February 7, 2011 – Monday
Our trip focus is changing again - we've been in the southwest and the northwest regions, now we're heading for the northern part of the country.  We’ve sorted and consolidated our belongings so’s to leave most of it in the hotel security room while we’re in the north; we’ll each live out of 1 small bag because we want to keep our things in direct line of sight on the train.  I’m challenged – I want to wear pants in the parks where we’ll be hiking through the forest, and in the very conservative north I should wear dresses and cover my head when we’re in the towns, and I want to buy souvenirs which will have to go in my bag.  I'm packing lightly, we'll wash things often to dry overnight in our room.  I'm excited!--Early today we visited APE Africa near Yaounde – if a primate must live in a sanctuary, this is the place to be.  The enclosures are each many hectares in size, enclosed with high electrified fencing.  The enclosure interiors are natural forest where groups of monkeys, gorillas and chimpanzees live in the treetops and the grass.  The Alpha gorilla came right to the fence, 3 feet away, to stand and look us over for 10 minutes.

Silverback Alpha Male Gorilla

The chimpanzee nursery was fun – about a dozen youngsters playfully busy in their enclosure; we learned they go for daily forest walks with their keepers so as to learn how to live in the wild again.  The area was really  loud with bursts of chimp talk.  A dozen or  more adolescent walked along inside just their fence as we passed, stopping when we did, clearly curious about us and wanting to interact.  If you hold a stick and get your scent on it, then push it through the fence, a chimp will take and smell it, add his/her scent and pass it back – they’ll do this all day if you keep the game going.  They throw things at you – pebbles, sticks, etc.  They hugged and groomed each other, and playfully peeked like human children.  There also are Miniature Chimpanzees – found to be more intelligent than their larger chimpanzee cousins.

Npho and Chimp Passing a Stick to Each Other

Chimpanzee thinking, watching, waiting for something to happen?

Animals Watching the Animals Watching the Animals...

Several rare species of monkeys from Cameroon, baboons, drills also live here – all stirringly wonderful.  All the animals here were rescued from poachers whose illegal goal was to sell them for stewpots, traditional medicine and the babies as pets.  At this center, those that can be rehabilitated will eventually be released back to the wild - their keepers take them out regularly for forest walks to learn how to live independently.  Our guide impressed us with his vast knowledge and great love for primates and all of nature.

Very Large Old Tree at APE Africa

 --The mission of APE Africa is to extinguish primate poaching.  They target education in local schools because reaching the children is the best way to influence their parents’ attitudes, beliefs and behaviors about poaching.  Community education about the very real health risks associated with poaching is another very important activity. This project is also an important international primate research destination.

Fresh-Roasted Peanuts for the Trip

Yaounde Railroad Station - In Line to Buy Train Tickets

Midafternoon we went to the train station to get our tickets - but  tonight’s train was completely sold out!  Nothing to do but stay another night in Yaounde.  We went to another spot for Export 33 and supper - we discovered that the intersection is called the Sorcerer's Corner.  Again, Njoke had found a place that turned out to be just right – we sat under a shade facing a typically busy intersection.  We ordered beer while he went to find roasted pork and accoutrements.  He returned, beer and then dinner appeared from different directions.  We devoured a platter of pork, spicy sauce and grilled plantain, and then we ordered another platter which also went right down.

Njoke Buying our Lunch

The plan is that Npho will stay in Yaounde with the truck while we’re in the north, and we’ll meet him here when we return.  To everyone’s surprise, Npho’s most of all, while he was shopping for his supper from a vendor, his older sister saw him – they’d not seen each other for years!  She joined us and Npho happily said he’s already made plans to stay with her and other relatives in Yaounde for the coming week.

Npho and His Long-Lost Sister