February 14, 2011

February 14, 2011 - Monday
--Happy Valentine’s Day! We left Roumsiki early, and bought breakfast by the road – little fried pieces of batters of peppered bean flour and sweetened white flour – very good indeed. We held on as we bumped along the VLBDR back to Maroua, and to the Craft Market. We found things for almost everyone at home, and had a great time bargaining. Then to L.A. King hoping to find a piece with the Cameroon cotton industry motif – no luck.
--Lunch was in another behind-the-scenes place where we were directed to our own dining area after we asked for beer – this was a Muslim establishment. We enjoyed good fish, chips and plantain, with by-the-road-purchased sweet potatoes, and of course beer.
--We left Maroua and drove on and on heading south along the paved road with many potholes, through miles and miles of the hauntingly beautiful very arid landscape that is peppered with compounds, baobabs, Joshua tree-like yucca plants, scrubby bushes, dry grasses, rocky fields, rocky low mountains. People here are very, very poor – children were dressed in rags, women looked tired as they trudge along with their heavy loads of water and foodstuffs on their heads, it is the dry season and there is no field work currently – men sit in groups under trees.
--I was startled to see a soldier from the Cameroon Anti-Highway Bandit outfit looking in my window! Njoke explained that he would ride with us for awhile, and he did for several miles. He told us that the government created his unit in response to the many very dangerous highway bandits between northern Cameroon border and Ngaoundere. His detail moves up/down the highway to protect travelers. After hearing that he’d been with soldiers who killed 6 bandits the night before, and who had captured a bandit in Roumsiki while we were there, it was comforting to have this unexpected guest.
--The soldier left us, and we drove on, taking a side trip to Guider. This is another round huts with thatched roofs village, and a nearby nationally protected massive area of exposed granite and marble. It was swarming with those little motorcycles carrying young men and a few young women – “they all come here for Valentine’s Day, they go across (the canyon in the rocks).” We walked out to the edge and marveled at this evidence of ancient volcanic activity, and were mobbed by kids selling bagged water and peeled fresh oranges.
--Very tired, we finally arrived in Garoua about sunset, and were happy to stay again in our same room at the Diocesan rest house. Simple and good supper with the sisters and fathers. And Joe has fixed the computer!
--Its been an amazing Valentine’s Day that I’d do again with Joe in a heartbeat.