February 10, 2011

February 10, 2011 – Wednesday
--We arrived in Ngaoundere very tired about 8:30 am. This is an arid region and we’re in the middle of the dry season. We passed through clean villages with houses made of adobe bricks and thatched roofs, people were primarily wearing Muslim attire. We got our bags, washed our faces in the very clean train station restrooms, and then we found a clean and inviting place to have breakfast across the commons at the station.
-- Njoke had arranged with his former university professor in Garoua for a vehicle and driver. Thomas is a driver with the University of Cameroon Dept. of Faun & Flore (Wildlife Science). Despite his authorization from the professor and the university to use the university’s truck, in Ngaoundere it was necessary to find a high level official to sanction the paperwork from the University, so we saw some of the city and the paperwork was signed.
--As we drove through and out of Ngaoundere, into the countryside we began seeing round thatched huts and mud brick houses clumped together in tight compounds with woven mat walls, trees here and there, people everywhere, many goats and cows, and it all looked very dry. We drove perhaps 100 km on a tarred road without many potholes.
--Then we turned in on a dirt road to Benoe Nat’l Park. Almost immediately we saw large antelope and waterbuck. As we drove along, we saw duiker, monkeys, many types of birds. We checked into our rooms, i.e., buckaroos – round, spacious, cool, African fabrics, very serene and comfy. We napped gratefully – we were very tired after last night’s train ride.
--We went for a drive thru the park seeing monkeys in the road, more antelope, waterbuck, and birds. We stopped, walked about a mile to the river, and voila! Hippos! Along the bank in small groups as far as we could see. We stood watching them quietly for more than an hour. They seemed oblivious that we were there – they rose and sank, blowing air, sometimes standing high enough that we could see an entire body. The males snorted, seeming to tell each other to keep their distance. We watched fish jumping for flies, saw a crocodile trail out of the river onto the bank and convinced ourselves that we saw its eyes above the river surface. Our guide invited us to return for a better look at the hippos at 6 am, and at the moment this was a definite ‘yes.’
--We trekked back to the compound, showered, supper was simple and delicious rice with meat sauce and crusty bread. Walking back to our room the night sky was bright and clear and we saw the stars which reminded us so much of home. We fell into bed hearing the river and whispering together about the hippos, “we’re in Africa!”