We woke up too early and couldn't get back to sleep - the joys of international travel! Shortly we caught up with Peggi and Robert for a very leisurely breakfast. Then we went to my car where my phone was patiently waiting for me! after charging it, to my joy all the information was still there. United Airlines called Peggi to let her know that our carry-on bags had arrived at Sky Harbor-Phoenix - sure enough, they were waiting for us at the airport and now all our bags are with us again.
--We spent the day visiting with Peg and Robert, catching up with family news, and absorbing the fact that we're no longer in Cameroon. For supper we bought some charcoaled ribs with green chile salsa and some fresh fruit, and spread them out on the bed in our hotel room for a feast. Sleep deprivation caught up with us, and we were in bed early.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Friday, February 25, 2011
February 25, 2011
February 25, 2011 – Friday
--Once in the air, dinner was served and then the lights went out. Somewhere, over Libya?, I saw lights that looked like large fires – I worried, then felt reassured that they were communities and ok. Maybe they were oil refineries burning off wastes? I couldn’t sleep. At 6 am breakfast was served. We arrived in Brussels at 7 am, went through more security checks getting to our connecting flight – our passports remained in our hands since we needed to show them so often. Then we were the waiting area only to find that the internet kiosks were not in service – darn! We killed 4 hours.
--12:30 pm – We boarded United Airlines for Washington-Dulles almost 9 flying hours away, and earlier clock time – Cameroon is 8 hours later than Arizona. An ok midday meal was served. The flight was crowded and seating was tight – I was glad to have the window seat, but I was restless and it was still very hard to sleep.
--We arrived at Dulles at 2:15 pm EST – tired and dazed. As with all arriving international flights, we had to collect our check-in luggage and have it checked by US Customs before it could be loaded on the plane to Phoenix. When we got the luggage, one check-in bag missing, and we had to wait for it to be sent and catch up to us. Eventually we got all our check-in and carry-on luggage and went through customs w/o incident. We picked up the bags and rechecked them – including our carry-ons – dang! The baggage handler checked and couldn’t find our bags, he said they’re already gone and he couldn’t retrieve them. Then we spoke with United Airlines Customer Service who said the same and took our information – we fear the 2 check-in bags may not have adequate identification since they were never checked in.
--With the baggage snafus, when we got to the gate our flight was already boarding – that layover whizzed by!
--The last leg of our journey. We left Dulles at 5 pm, and after almost 6 hours we arrived at Phx Sky Harbor, at 8:00 pm. Peggi was there! Robert circled the airport with the car while we did the luggage gig. We hugged and danced around the baggage carousel. Chattering happily, very tired, we got the 3 check-in bags, but the carry-on bags didn’t come on this flight. So we met again with United Airlines Customer Service and gave descriptive info. When the bags arrive they’ll fly them to Show Low Airport.
--It was good to hear family news, so, so wonderful! And we had American fast food for supper – I’d looked forward to this and wasn’t disappointed. Then Motel 8 in Apache Junction, and to sleep.
--Once in the air, dinner was served and then the lights went out. Somewhere, over Libya?, I saw lights that looked like large fires – I worried, then felt reassured that they were communities and ok. Maybe they were oil refineries burning off wastes? I couldn’t sleep. At 6 am breakfast was served. We arrived in Brussels at 7 am, went through more security checks getting to our connecting flight – our passports remained in our hands since we needed to show them so often. Then we were the waiting area only to find that the internet kiosks were not in service – darn! We killed 4 hours.
--12:30 pm – We boarded United Airlines for Washington-Dulles almost 9 flying hours away, and earlier clock time – Cameroon is 8 hours later than Arizona. An ok midday meal was served. The flight was crowded and seating was tight – I was glad to have the window seat, but I was restless and it was still very hard to sleep.
--We arrived at Dulles at 2:15 pm EST – tired and dazed. As with all arriving international flights, we had to collect our check-in luggage and have it checked by US Customs before it could be loaded on the plane to Phoenix. When we got the luggage, one check-in bag missing, and we had to wait for it to be sent and catch up to us. Eventually we got all our check-in and carry-on luggage and went through customs w/o incident. We picked up the bags and rechecked them – including our carry-ons – dang! The baggage handler checked and couldn’t find our bags, he said they’re already gone and he couldn’t retrieve them. Then we spoke with United Airlines Customer Service who said the same and took our information – we fear the 2 check-in bags may not have adequate identification since they were never checked in.
--With the baggage snafus, when we got to the gate our flight was already boarding – that layover whizzed by!
--The last leg of our journey. We left Dulles at 5 pm, and after almost 6 hours we arrived at Phx Sky Harbor, at 8:00 pm. Peggi was there! Robert circled the airport with the car while we did the luggage gig. We hugged and danced around the baggage carousel. Chattering happily, very tired, we got the 3 check-in bags, but the carry-on bags didn’t come on this flight. So we met again with United Airlines Customer Service and gave descriptive info. When the bags arrive they’ll fly them to Show Low Airport.
--It was good to hear family news, so, so wonderful! And we had American fast food for supper – I’d looked forward to this and wasn’t disappointed. Then Motel 8 in Apache Junction, and to sleep.
Thursday, February 24, 2011
February 24, 2011
February 24, 2011 – Thursday
--I woke early and began packing in earnest for our flight. I made the final decision to leave much of my clothing for WEH so as to accommodate everything we want to take home. After the packing was completed and we counted our bags, we had only 3 check-ins – why? We’d arrived with 2 check-ins each and our respective carry-on bags, ie, 4 check-ins and carry-ons. We finally figured out that we’d used the smaller duffle as a dirty clothes bag, and when we had our laundry done in Bamenda we didn’t notice that it wasn’t returned when our clean clothes showed up in our room. Oh well – less to carry, and going home we’re a lot lighter than we were when we came 2 months ago.
--There’s no internet service anywhere in the neighborhood – Joe went to the internet café where we’ve been before, and on the way back he stopped at the Marche for a bag of cookies.
--We got a ride to the airport and checked our bags in early. Then back home for farewell dinner. At Ruth’s request, I prepared dinner using the Arizona seasonings I’d brought as a house gift. We had roasted pork with chorizo-stuffing using Ruth’s “sophisticated” pork – she raises her own pigs so’s to know what they eat, and they’re really good.
--We were back at the airport at 10:30 pm to check ourselves in. We showed our passports at least 8 times from check-in until we arrived in the passengers lobby! Just outside the lobby there was a food vendor with sandwiches and cold drinks in a cooler. Joe went out of the lobby to get things for us, but he was not allowed to bring them in. I joined him and we gulped down 1.5 L water and large can beer. Then we showed our passports again to re-enter the passengers lobby where our carry-on luggage was patiently waiting for us – it had been in full view while we had our drinks. We boarded Brussels Airlines at 12:30 am, about 30 minutes earlier than original ticketed time.
--I woke early and began packing in earnest for our flight. I made the final decision to leave much of my clothing for WEH so as to accommodate everything we want to take home. After the packing was completed and we counted our bags, we had only 3 check-ins – why? We’d arrived with 2 check-ins each and our respective carry-on bags, ie, 4 check-ins and carry-ons. We finally figured out that we’d used the smaller duffle as a dirty clothes bag, and when we had our laundry done in Bamenda we didn’t notice that it wasn’t returned when our clean clothes showed up in our room. Oh well – less to carry, and going home we’re a lot lighter than we were when we came 2 months ago.
--There’s no internet service anywhere in the neighborhood – Joe went to the internet café where we’ve been before, and on the way back he stopped at the Marche for a bag of cookies.
--We got a ride to the airport and checked our bags in early. Then back home for farewell dinner. At Ruth’s request, I prepared dinner using the Arizona seasonings I’d brought as a house gift. We had roasted pork with chorizo-stuffing using Ruth’s “sophisticated” pork – she raises her own pigs so’s to know what they eat, and they’re really good.
--We were back at the airport at 10:30 pm to check ourselves in. We showed our passports at least 8 times from check-in until we arrived in the passengers lobby! Just outside the lobby there was a food vendor with sandwiches and cold drinks in a cooler. Joe went out of the lobby to get things for us, but he was not allowed to bring them in. I joined him and we gulped down 1.5 L water and large can beer. Then we showed our passports again to re-enter the passengers lobby where our carry-on luggage was patiently waiting for us – it had been in full view while we had our drinks. We boarded Brussels Airlines at 12:30 am, about 30 minutes earlier than original ticketed time.
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
February 23, 2011
February 23, 2011 – Wednesday
--Over breakfast we discovered we’d miscalculated our return date – 2/24 12:50 am means we have to leave today vs. tomorrow. We called Njoke – we’d made plans to have today, our last tour day on the Rim Road seeing Lake Awi and eating again in Belo. Changing plans wasn’t too convenient for him, but he and Npho are flexible and said this could be done. They agreed that Sam could ride along with us – his assignment in Cameroon is over and he’ll fly home to Victoria the day after we leave. Njoke and Npho were there at noon, and we loaded all our belongings into the truck. We’d phoned Ruth to let her know we’re coming a day early, gathered and packed laundry and belongings. --Lunch along the way was at a place next to a gas station with reasonable restroom! Roasted pork and plantains with “33” – I’m sad that this is the last of these amazing meals.
--The 7-hour drive from Bamenda to Douala was beautiful, but a little anxiety-provoking. For the past few days we’d started to hear warnings not to go to Yaounde or Douala because demonstrations were planned – the north African unrest is spreading across the continent. National elections will be next fall, and there is already dissention. We were stopped a few times by militia who checked us all much more carefully than in the past few weeks – we repeatedly showed our passports and explained that we were on our way home to America the next day. We were pretty edgy.
--In Douala, Njoke amazed us again by finding Sam’s hotel without difficulty. When we were in the Titis’ neighborhood, with one phone call he got us to Ruth’s house. At the gate Joe and I spilled out of the truck to greet Elois. At the front door we introduced and hugged Ruth and Carol, then we said our farewells and thanks to Njoke and Npho.
--We were tired. Dinner was wonderful. It felt really good to be “home” again, and to fall in bed early. We’ll fly tomorrow night.
--Over breakfast we discovered we’d miscalculated our return date – 2/24 12:50 am means we have to leave today vs. tomorrow. We called Njoke – we’d made plans to have today, our last tour day on the Rim Road seeing Lake Awi and eating again in Belo. Changing plans wasn’t too convenient for him, but he and Npho are flexible and said this could be done. They agreed that Sam could ride along with us – his assignment in Cameroon is over and he’ll fly home to Victoria the day after we leave. Njoke and Npho were there at noon, and we loaded all our belongings into the truck. We’d phoned Ruth to let her know we’re coming a day early, gathered and packed laundry and belongings. --Lunch along the way was at a place next to a gas station with reasonable restroom! Roasted pork and plantains with “33” – I’m sad that this is the last of these amazing meals.
--The 7-hour drive from Bamenda to Douala was beautiful, but a little anxiety-provoking. For the past few days we’d started to hear warnings not to go to Yaounde or Douala because demonstrations were planned – the north African unrest is spreading across the continent. National elections will be next fall, and there is already dissention. We were stopped a few times by militia who checked us all much more carefully than in the past few weeks – we repeatedly showed our passports and explained that we were on our way home to America the next day. We were pretty edgy.
--In Douala, Njoke amazed us again by finding Sam’s hotel without difficulty. When we were in the Titis’ neighborhood, with one phone call he got us to Ruth’s house. At the gate Joe and I spilled out of the truck to greet Elois. At the front door we introduced and hugged Ruth and Carol, then we said our farewells and thanks to Njoke and Npho.
--We were tired. Dinner was wonderful. It felt really good to be “home” again, and to fall in bed early. We’ll fly tomorrow night.
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
February 22, 2011
February 22, 2011 – Tuesday
--Today is my birthday – now I’m a septuagenarian! I don’t feel any older or different.
--Saw patients with Godlove. Lunch at CBCHB Canteen Afternoon ride in his car to Mbingo Hospital.
--Met with Dr. Palmer – offer to come teach NPs and psychiatry to residents
--Toured some of hospital, met Administrator
--Snacks in Mbingo canteen, visited with his staff and social workers.
--Drove back to town – stopped at Circle-K-like place for American hamburgers, bargained for watermelons.
--Car wouldn’t start – got a push, pusher jumped in to drive, down a hill and around we went, car started, driver couldn’t get it in reverse…
--Njoke to take us to Lake Awi tomorrow – last tour activity.
--Today is my birthday – now I’m a septuagenarian! I don’t feel any older or different.
--Saw patients with Godlove. Lunch at CBCHB Canteen Afternoon ride in his car to Mbingo Hospital.
--Met with Dr. Palmer – offer to come teach NPs and psychiatry to residents
--Toured some of hospital, met Administrator
--Snacks in Mbingo canteen, visited with his staff and social workers.
--Drove back to town – stopped at Circle-K-like place for American hamburgers, bargained for watermelons.
--Car wouldn’t start – got a push, pusher jumped in to drive, down a hill and around we went, car started, driver couldn’t get it in reverse…
--Njoke to take us to Lake Awi tomorrow – last tour activity.
Monday, February 21, 2011
February 21, 2011
February 21, 2011 – Monday
--I was up early, very excited - I walked across the street to his office, CBCHB- Community Counseling Center – coincidentally I work for Community Counseling Centers at home in Arizona! We’re seeing patients again today. The CBCHB doctors do their best, but the formulary is limited, and none of them are psychiatrists or know much of anything about psychotropics. When they’ve tried and failed, they refer psychiatric patients to Godlove. We saw 3 patients, one of whom has been taking antipsychotics which are partially controlling her tormenting voices but she’s developed severe muscle pain and stiffness – the prescribing doctor sent her to Godlove to see what he can do. I knew immediately that she was having side effects to her antipsychotics and sent the lady’s husband to a pharmacy for benztropine which we use regularly in the US
--Godlove took me to lunch at Friendship, then I had the afternoon off to stroll around the neighborhood with Joe.
--We had another new adventure. Sam Waller is a Canadian accountant who is here to help some community counsels develop record-keeping systems. Several times we’ve enjoyed visiting over breakfast, and today we decided to take a taxi to town to a restaurant that he recommended, Dreamland. Taxis here are very inexpensive, about 500 cfa ($1.00) per person – it seems the drivers must make their money by the volume of fares. It is common for a taxi to carry 7-8 people with a lot of personal belongings – people go a few blocks and get out and others climb in. So, we got in and Sam told the driver we’re going to Dreamland. It wasn’t long till our taxi had more people going the same general direction that we were. We arrived at an unfamiliar street and the taxi stopped midblock, “this is it” said Sam. We climbed a steep 2-story flight of stairs with no landing, and entered a lovely restaurant with white table cloths and formally attired wait staff. At our request, we were seated on the balcony where we watched the street below. The food was good – spicy chicken, rice, fried plantains, red sauce, hot sauce, pepper soup – yum! Then back to the Rest House in another taxi, repeating the trip in reverse.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
February 20, 2011
February 20 2011 – Sunday
--Today began with bright and beautiful skies – there was some rain last night and much of the dust is gone and the air is clear and pleasantly fresh. We dressed and walked a short distance to the Baptist Church
--As we started the walk home, we were approached by a boy who said he has questions about America Brandon America America Brandon Cameroon
--Njoke brought his wife and 11 yo son, Boy, who has Downs Syndrome. Njoke was dressed in African garb – so very handsome! We visited awhile, I gave Aggie the fabric that Njoke had chosen – she will be beautiful in the dress she’ll have made and she’s promised to send a photo. Her dark skin will be lovely with the dark red, navy and pale grey print.
--
Saturday, February 19, 2011
February 19, 2011
February 19, 2011 – Saturday
--We were up early for breakfast, and lingered with another guest here chatting about nothing in particular. He introduced us to Paddypower.com - an Irish site that offers opportunities to bet on American political candidates’ chances, various details of the upcoming British royal wedding, races of all sorts, and a myriad of other minutia. Today Obama is ahead of all the Republicans, Sarah Palin is not the leading Republican, and Kate will be married in an ivory dress. Place your bets!
--We went to a crafts center this morning to find the final things we want to take home – now Joe has a bag like men in Cameroon carry with a horn cup for drinking palm wine, and he has cola nuts to pass out from his bag should anyone ask for them. A lovely hand carved cross to add to those above the mantle in our living room.
--Then to L.A. King Fabrics to find fabric for a gift for Njoke’s wife – tomorrow afternoon I’ll give her the beautiful piece that he chose for her. Then we stopped for roasted cow meat and beer - both were very good even if we weren’t particularly hungry since we’d had breakfast a couple of hours earlier.
--We’re taking the afternoon off. I’ve started figuring out how to pack all the souvenirs to meet weight requirements and avoid breakage – not a small task! Our drying ;laundry is decorating our room. Joe is happily practicing Barbershopper songs – sitting on the veranda with his headphones, singing to himself, and I’m about to join him with my book. Later we’ll watch the international news – wonder what’s happening in Arizona?
--Our remaining time in Cameroon is short – 5 days, and there are still so many things we haven’t seen and done, and I’ve only just started to help with psychiatry. We’ll return, although in Roumsiki the Crab Sorcerer said I won’t but Joe will think it over and possibly he’ll be back. Hmmm. He’s a very old man and I’m sure he does his best.
--We were up early for breakfast, and lingered with another guest here chatting about nothing in particular. He introduced us to Paddypower.com - an Irish site that offers opportunities to bet on American political candidates’ chances, various details of the upcoming British royal wedding, races of all sorts, and a myriad of other minutia. Today Obama is ahead of all the Republicans, Sarah Palin is not the leading Republican, and Kate will be married in an ivory dress. Place your bets!
--We went to a crafts center this morning to find the final things we want to take home – now Joe has a bag like men in Cameroon carry with a horn cup for drinking palm wine, and he has cola nuts to pass out from his bag should anyone ask for them. A lovely hand carved cross to add to those above the mantle in our living room.
--Then to L.A. King Fabrics to find fabric for a gift for Njoke’s wife – tomorrow afternoon I’ll give her the beautiful piece that he chose for her. Then we stopped for roasted cow meat and beer - both were very good even if we weren’t particularly hungry since we’d had breakfast a couple of hours earlier.
--We’re taking the afternoon off. I’ve started figuring out how to pack all the souvenirs to meet weight requirements and avoid breakage – not a small task! Our drying ;laundry is decorating our room. Joe is happily practicing Barbershopper songs – sitting on the veranda with his headphones, singing to himself, and I’m about to join him with my book. Later we’ll watch the international news – wonder what’s happening in Arizona?
--Our remaining time in Cameroon is short – 5 days, and there are still so many things we haven’t seen and done, and I’ve only just started to help with psychiatry. We’ll return, although in Roumsiki the Crab Sorcerer said I won’t but Joe will think it over and possibly he’ll be back. Hmmm. He’s a very old man and I’m sure he does his best.
Friday, February 18, 2011
February 18, 2011
February 18, 2011 – Friday
--Rev. Godlove Ndongndeh’s office is a quick walk from the rest house. I was warmly received and visited with the social worker while he finished a counseling session. She’s assured me that it will be possible for me to learn more about the preparation of local dishes, and she really laughed when I said I haven’t yet mustered the courage to try something that to me looks like the contents of a baby diaper although it smells much, much better. We talked about social work needs here – they’re very much the same as I knew when I did social work years ago.
--Rev. Godlove and I talked for an hour about the mental health needs here. There are only 2 psychiatrists in this country and neither is available in this region. Locally the medical doctors are overly burdened and thus they do not diagnose or treat psychiatric illnesses. Here the medical establishment refers those who may have psychiatric needs to Pastoral Care and Counseling for assessment. After they’ve evaluated the patient, a DSM-IV diagnosis is given, the patient is sent back to the medical team and finally medications are prescribed within the limits of the very narrow formulary and their expertise – yikes. It is clear that the same serious psychiatric disorders with their associated problems occur here as are known all over the world, and it is equally clear that the needs are not addressed here and people are suffering.
--The presentation with the medical and nursing staff directors and members of the Pastoral Care Team went very well – lots of questions and discussion, much more than we had time for. I gave them a few hastily prepared protocols based on their formulary and promised to develop more for them ASAP. I’ll also search for avenues to expand the psychotropics in the formulary. They were fascinated with descriptions of telemedicine.
- Rev. Godlove is training a class of Pastoral Care counselors; I stayed to observe and found it very interesting. It was especially gratifying to see how tolerant and accepting they are of individual, theological and cultural differences – the goal is to help all God’s people in ways that that find acceptable and useful.
--Afterward Joe and Mildred, Rev. Godlove’s Administrative Assistant, joined us for delicious supper of well-prepared Cameroonian foods at a nearby restaurant – yum. We made plans to meet again before I leave – I’ll see a few patients, and we’ll go to the large CBCHB hospital to meet with their Medical Director to discuss ways to enhance mental health and psychiatric services. After I leave we will remain in close contact, and Rev. Godlove will send cases to me from time to time for treatment recommendations.
--Rev. Godlove Ndongndeh’s office is a quick walk from the rest house. I was warmly received and visited with the social worker while he finished a counseling session. She’s assured me that it will be possible for me to learn more about the preparation of local dishes, and she really laughed when I said I haven’t yet mustered the courage to try something that to me looks like the contents of a baby diaper although it smells much, much better. We talked about social work needs here – they’re very much the same as I knew when I did social work years ago.
--Rev. Godlove and I talked for an hour about the mental health needs here. There are only 2 psychiatrists in this country and neither is available in this region. Locally the medical doctors are overly burdened and thus they do not diagnose or treat psychiatric illnesses. Here the medical establishment refers those who may have psychiatric needs to Pastoral Care and Counseling for assessment. After they’ve evaluated the patient, a DSM-IV diagnosis is given, the patient is sent back to the medical team and finally medications are prescribed within the limits of the very narrow formulary and their expertise – yikes. It is clear that the same serious psychiatric disorders with their associated problems occur here as are known all over the world, and it is equally clear that the needs are not addressed here and people are suffering.
--The presentation with the medical and nursing staff directors and members of the Pastoral Care Team went very well – lots of questions and discussion, much more than we had time for. I gave them a few hastily prepared protocols based on their formulary and promised to develop more for them ASAP. I’ll also search for avenues to expand the psychotropics in the formulary. They were fascinated with descriptions of telemedicine.
- Rev. Godlove is training a class of Pastoral Care counselors; I stayed to observe and found it very interesting. It was especially gratifying to see how tolerant and accepting they are of individual, theological and cultural differences – the goal is to help all God’s people in ways that that find acceptable and useful.
--Afterward Joe and Mildred, Rev. Godlove’s Administrative Assistant, joined us for delicious supper of well-prepared Cameroonian foods at a nearby restaurant – yum. We made plans to meet again before I leave – I’ll see a few patients, and we’ll go to the large CBCHB hospital to meet with their Medical Director to discuss ways to enhance mental health and psychiatric services. After I leave we will remain in close contact, and Rev. Godlove will send cases to me from time to time for treatment recommendations.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
February 17, 2011
February 17, 2011 – Thursday
--We woke up to watch the sunrise, noted we were back in the rainforest again, and settled back to wait for arrival in Yaounde. Dutifully we gathered our belongings and lo! there was Njoke with his bag – we trudged over the tracks, through the lobby, and there was Npho with the truck. We piled in and headed for Bamenda.
--Over the last few days we decided to change our itinerary. In 2008 I began an e-mail correspondence with Rev. Godlove Ndongndeh who is the Director of Pastoral Care and Counseling Services with the Cameroon Baptist Convention Health Board in Bamenda and surrounding environs. We’d discussed ways that I might help his program and the CBCHB medical staff with psychiatry and psychotropic medications. Then we lost contact, and but one of those wonderful God Things happened – just as we were departing Bamenda 10 days ago, I had e-mail from him! We corresponded hurriedly with the result that we decided to cancel our tour to the southern provinces, and return to Bamenda so that I could meet with him and others to discuss psychiatry services.
--We arrived in Bamenda late afternoon, vibrating, tired and very glad to put our feet on Terra Firma after the past days of riding and riding and riding. I found e-mail from Rev. Godlove inviting me to speak tomorrow afternoon to the directors of the hospital, the nursing program, several from pastoral care, and perhaps others – “Mental Health and Psychotropic Medications.” We planned that I would see him in his office in the morning to review tentative plans for the next few days, and to focus my talk more definitively.
--We woke up to watch the sunrise, noted we were back in the rainforest again, and settled back to wait for arrival in Yaounde. Dutifully we gathered our belongings and lo! there was Njoke with his bag – we trudged over the tracks, through the lobby, and there was Npho with the truck. We piled in and headed for Bamenda.
--Over the last few days we decided to change our itinerary. In 2008 I began an e-mail correspondence with Rev. Godlove Ndongndeh who is the Director of Pastoral Care and Counseling Services with the Cameroon Baptist Convention Health Board in Bamenda and surrounding environs. We’d discussed ways that I might help his program and the CBCHB medical staff with psychiatry and psychotropic medications. Then we lost contact, and but one of those wonderful God Things happened – just as we were departing Bamenda 10 days ago, I had e-mail from him! We corresponded hurriedly with the result that we decided to cancel our tour to the southern provinces, and return to Bamenda so that I could meet with him and others to discuss psychiatry services.
--We arrived in Bamenda late afternoon, vibrating, tired and very glad to put our feet on Terra Firma after the past days of riding and riding and riding. I found e-mail from Rev. Godlove inviting me to speak tomorrow afternoon to the directors of the hospital, the nursing program, several from pastoral care, and perhaps others – “Mental Health and Psychotropic Medications.” We planned that I would see him in his office in the morning to review tentative plans for the next few days, and to focus my talk more definitively.
Wednesday, February 16, 2011
February 16, 2011
February 16, 2011 – Wednesday
--We went to the Ngaoundere train station early for our tickets – and were told we must buy them the day prior to travel. Rats! We ate in a spot at the train station last night and, based on recent experience, we thought we had to wait till morning so we didn’t try for them then.
--So we sputtered, pondered, and found a representative from the local Tourism Office who took us down a VLBDR to see a beautiful lake with attractive conference center facilities under construction.
--Then he took us to see the palace and chambers of the local traditional leader, ie, the Lamido, whose line is traced to the early 1800s. The Lamido and his 50-odd wives and a few hundred children live in quarters behind the area that permits visitors. Respectfully, we left our shoes on the steps and entered a large darkened, cool room. The tour was very interesting – the buildings have thick adobe walls, high ceilings with beautiful woven thatch design work, and the many niches, nooks and images were all described to us in some detail. We had to pass in front of the Lamido who was resting on a porch – we were taught how to bow and speak to him as we passed, and he greeted us courteously in return. Apparently he thought our bare feet hurt on the sand because he had our shoes brought to us with permission to wear them for the rest of the tour.
--This part of Cameroon is predominantly Muslim.
--Thomas has been our driver since we arrived in Ngaoundere a week ago. Today while we were touring the palace, he received a message that his youngest brother had died unexpectedly after he’d taken a good turn following a long illness – Thomas was stunned. Although he’d expected to wait with us till our train left, we encouraged him to leave us and return to his home in Garoua without delay. We gave him our prayers and good wishes, and a gift to help with his expenses in the coming days, and he drove away. Thomas is a very good and kind person, and a good driver. We wish him well and thank him profusely for his many kindnesses and thoughtfulness.
--Back to the train station in hopes that we could get tickets for tonight. Njoke parked us at the food place and left with a guy “who knows all the tricks.” Half an hour later he was back with 2d class tickets for the 3 of us, and he’d put our names on the cancellation list for 1st class seats. At 4 pm he and the guy-who-knows-all-the-tricks went back to the ticket counter – an hour later, 1 hour before scheduled departure time, they were back smiling. Njoke had a 1st class seat and he’d secured 2 tickets for a sleeper for Joe and me! He’d paid someone to allow my bag of gifts to come into our car vs. the luggage room, and he’d pain the guy-who-knows-all-the-tricks, and he’d pulled off a miracle of gigantic proportions! We drank a “33” to our good fortune, and after Njoke gave us instructions to wait for him on the platform with our luggage in the morning, we got on the train - it left about 6:45 pm. We watched the city disappear into the twilight, ate some freshly picked bananas and stale cookies for supper, and went to bed watching the full mood out the train windows. We loved the train’s swaying movements and slept very well despite stops at every town along the way. At each stop women and children with heavy platters of food on their heads crowd up to the windows calling, “baton, baton! (long steamed sticks of ground manioc),” “l’eau, l’eau, l’eau, l’eau, l’eau (water in bottles),” “annana, annana, annana…(fresh pineapple sticks),” “banan, banan, banan…(fresh picked bananas),” “pastiche, pastiche, pastiche…(steamed seasoned pureed pumpkin seeds wrapped in plantain leaves),” etc., etc. They also sell phone cards, maps of Cameroon, portfolios, African print fabrics, peanuts, on and on, amazing.
--We went to the Ngaoundere train station early for our tickets – and were told we must buy them the day prior to travel. Rats! We ate in a spot at the train station last night and, based on recent experience, we thought we had to wait till morning so we didn’t try for them then.
--So we sputtered, pondered, and found a representative from the local Tourism Office who took us down a VLBDR to see a beautiful lake with attractive conference center facilities under construction.
--Then he took us to see the palace and chambers of the local traditional leader, ie, the Lamido, whose line is traced to the early 1800s. The Lamido and his 50-odd wives and a few hundred children live in quarters behind the area that permits visitors. Respectfully, we left our shoes on the steps and entered a large darkened, cool room. The tour was very interesting – the buildings have thick adobe walls, high ceilings with beautiful woven thatch design work, and the many niches, nooks and images were all described to us in some detail. We had to pass in front of the Lamido who was resting on a porch – we were taught how to bow and speak to him as we passed, and he greeted us courteously in return. Apparently he thought our bare feet hurt on the sand because he had our shoes brought to us with permission to wear them for the rest of the tour.
--This part of Cameroon is predominantly Muslim.
--Thomas has been our driver since we arrived in Ngaoundere a week ago. Today while we were touring the palace, he received a message that his youngest brother had died unexpectedly after he’d taken a good turn following a long illness – Thomas was stunned. Although he’d expected to wait with us till our train left, we encouraged him to leave us and return to his home in Garoua without delay. We gave him our prayers and good wishes, and a gift to help with his expenses in the coming days, and he drove away. Thomas is a very good and kind person, and a good driver. We wish him well and thank him profusely for his many kindnesses and thoughtfulness.
--Back to the train station in hopes that we could get tickets for tonight. Njoke parked us at the food place and left with a guy “who knows all the tricks.” Half an hour later he was back with 2d class tickets for the 3 of us, and he’d put our names on the cancellation list for 1st class seats. At 4 pm he and the guy-who-knows-all-the-tricks went back to the ticket counter – an hour later, 1 hour before scheduled departure time, they were back smiling. Njoke had a 1st class seat and he’d secured 2 tickets for a sleeper for Joe and me! He’d paid someone to allow my bag of gifts to come into our car vs. the luggage room, and he’d pain the guy-who-knows-all-the-tricks, and he’d pulled off a miracle of gigantic proportions! We drank a “33” to our good fortune, and after Njoke gave us instructions to wait for him on the platform with our luggage in the morning, we got on the train - it left about 6:45 pm. We watched the city disappear into the twilight, ate some freshly picked bananas and stale cookies for supper, and went to bed watching the full mood out the train windows. We loved the train’s swaying movements and slept very well despite stops at every town along the way. At each stop women and children with heavy platters of food on their heads crowd up to the windows calling, “baton, baton! (long steamed sticks of ground manioc),” “l’eau, l’eau, l’eau, l’eau, l’eau (water in bottles),” “annana, annana, annana…(fresh pineapple sticks),” “banan, banan, banan…(fresh picked bananas),” “pastiche, pastiche, pastiche…(steamed seasoned pureed pumpkin seeds wrapped in plantain leaves),” etc., etc. They also sell phone cards, maps of Cameroon, portfolios, African print fabrics, peanuts, on and on, amazing.
Tuesday, February 15, 2011
February 15, 2011
February 15, 2011 – Tuesday
--This was supposed to be a slow morning with a plan to leave town late in the morning. I tried out my French over breakfast with a pleasant man who attempted his English with me. He is a government auditor from Yaounde here on assignment with Sodecam headquarters – Sodecam is the national cotton processing company. I told him I’d seen a woman wearing a dress made of an African print that portrayed the Sodecam emblem, cotton plants, cotton balls, and cottonseed oil – he said I could get that fabric at the Sodecam office in Garoua, and then offered to arrange a tour of the plant for us! and in a few minutes we were on our way.
--At the gate we were taken to a driver who expected us and drove us to the headquarters offices, and escorted to the General Manager’s Office where we were greeted most cordially.
The Cotton Fiber Plant Supervisor was our tour guide. He explained all the steps from delivery of truckloads of loose raw cotton to the finished bales. Then we were taken to meet the Cotton Seed Oil Production Manager. Again we were toured through from start to finish. Back to the Manager’s office where we met with several supervisors who answered our questions very thoughtfully. I asked if there was something that we, as ordinary American citizens, can do to support the Cameroon cotton industry. They replied very thoughtfully - we could encourage anything that will support the growers – prices on the world cotton market have fallen so much that the growers are desperately impoverished. Indeed, as we passed through cotton-growing areas, our impression was that they are poverty-stricken.
--Then we visited the Garoua Crafts Market where we were mobbed by clamoring vendors of everything we didn’t want and a few things that we did - I bought some gifts and souvenirs.
--As we were leaving the area I overheard men talking to Njoke about not wanting white people there – this was the only such experience we’ve had and averted it easily. Of much greater concern was a fight that broke out nearby and we left quickly.
--We went to a restaurant for lunch of fish, plantain and rice, with “33.” We had a large private dining room complete with Christmas decorations, to ourselves because we wanted to have beer and thus, we couldn’t be served in the regular dining room.
--We drove and drove on a paved highway with lots of big, deep potholes to Ngaoundere where we spent the night at the Archdiocese rest house – not as nice as in Garoua, but comfortable enough. Supper at the eating place at the train station that we found when we arrived in Ngaoundere on our way north. The proprietress remembered me from the last time there and we chatted about how to make local foods – now I know a little more about ebodje, pastiche, and eru. Mother Superior had promised she’d lock us out if we weren’t back by 9 pm, so we were tucked in our beds with time to spare.
--This was supposed to be a slow morning with a plan to leave town late in the morning. I tried out my French over breakfast with a pleasant man who attempted his English with me. He is a government auditor from Yaounde here on assignment with Sodecam headquarters – Sodecam is the national cotton processing company. I told him I’d seen a woman wearing a dress made of an African print that portrayed the Sodecam emblem, cotton plants, cotton balls, and cottonseed oil – he said I could get that fabric at the Sodecam office in Garoua, and then offered to arrange a tour of the plant for us! and in a few minutes we were on our way.
--At the gate we were taken to a driver who expected us and drove us to the headquarters offices, and escorted to the General Manager’s Office where we were greeted most cordially.
--Then we visited the Garoua Crafts Market where we were mobbed by clamoring vendors of everything we didn’t want and a few things that we did - I bought some gifts and souvenirs.
--As we were leaving the area I overheard men talking to Njoke about not wanting white people there – this was the only such experience we’ve had and averted it easily. Of much greater concern was a fight that broke out nearby and we left quickly.
--We went to a restaurant for lunch of fish, plantain and rice, with “33.” We had a large private dining room complete with Christmas decorations, to ourselves because we wanted to have beer and thus, we couldn’t be served in the regular dining room.
--We drove and drove on a paved highway with lots of big, deep potholes to Ngaoundere where we spent the night at the Archdiocese rest house – not as nice as in Garoua, but comfortable enough. Supper at the eating place at the train station that we found when we arrived in Ngaoundere on our way north. The proprietress remembered me from the last time there and we chatted about how to make local foods – now I know a little more about ebodje, pastiche, and eru. Mother Superior had promised she’d lock us out if we weren’t back by 9 pm, so we were tucked in our beds with time to spare.
Monday, February 14, 2011
February 14, 2011
February 14, 2011 - Monday
--Happy Valentine’s Day! We left Roumsiki early, and bought breakfast by the road – little fried pieces of batters of peppered bean flour and sweetened white flour – very good indeed. We held on as we bumped along the VLBDR back to Maroua, and to the Craft Market. We found things for almost everyone at home, and had a great time bargaining. Then to L.A. King hoping to find a piece with the Cameroon cotton industry motif – no luck.
--Lunch was in another behind-the-scenes place where we were directed to our own dining area after we asked for beer – this was a Muslim establishment. We enjoyed good fish, chips and plantain, with by-the-road-purchased sweet potatoes, and of course beer.
--We left Maroua and drove on and on heading south along the paved road with many potholes, through miles and miles of the hauntingly beautiful very arid landscape that is peppered with compounds, baobabs, Joshua tree-like yucca plants, scrubby bushes, dry grasses, rocky fields, rocky low mountains. People here are very, very poor – children were dressed in rags, women looked tired as they trudge along with their heavy loads of water and foodstuffs on their heads, it is the dry season and there is no field work currently – men sit in groups under trees.
--I was startled to see a soldier from the Cameroon Anti-Highway Bandit outfit looking in my window! Njoke explained that he would ride with us for awhile, and he did for several miles. He told us that the government created his unit in response to the many very dangerous highway bandits between northern Cameroon border and Ngaoundere. His detail moves up/down the highway to protect travelers. After hearing that he’d been with soldiers who killed 6 bandits the night before, and who had captured a bandit in Roumsiki while we were there, it was comforting to have this unexpected guest.
--The soldier left us, and we drove on, taking a side trip to Guider. This is another round huts with thatched roofs village, and a nearby nationally protected massive area of exposed granite and marble. It was swarming with those little motorcycles carrying young men and a few young women – “they all come here for Valentine’s Day, they go across (the canyon in the rocks).” We walked out to the edge and marveled at this evidence of ancient volcanic activity, and were mobbed by kids selling bagged water and peeled fresh oranges.
--Very tired, we finally arrived in Garoua about sunset, and were happy to stay again in our same room at the Diocesan rest house. Simple and good supper with the sisters and fathers. And Joe has fixed the computer!
--Its been an amazing Valentine’s Day that I’d do again with Joe in a heartbeat.
--Happy Valentine’s Day! We left Roumsiki early, and bought breakfast by the road – little fried pieces of batters of peppered bean flour and sweetened white flour – very good indeed. We held on as we bumped along the VLBDR back to Maroua, and to the Craft Market. We found things for almost everyone at home, and had a great time bargaining. Then to L.A. King hoping to find a piece with the Cameroon cotton industry motif – no luck.
--Lunch was in another behind-the-scenes place where we were directed to our own dining area after we asked for beer – this was a Muslim establishment. We enjoyed good fish, chips and plantain, with by-the-road-purchased sweet potatoes, and of course beer.
--We left Maroua and drove on and on heading south along the paved road with many potholes, through miles and miles of the hauntingly beautiful very arid landscape that is peppered with compounds, baobabs, Joshua tree-like yucca plants, scrubby bushes, dry grasses, rocky fields, rocky low mountains. People here are very, very poor – children were dressed in rags, women looked tired as they trudge along with their heavy loads of water and foodstuffs on their heads, it is the dry season and there is no field work currently – men sit in groups under trees.
--I was startled to see a soldier from the Cameroon Anti-Highway Bandit outfit looking in my window! Njoke explained that he would ride with us for awhile, and he did for several miles. He told us that the government created his unit in response to the many very dangerous highway bandits between northern Cameroon border and Ngaoundere. His detail moves up/down the highway to protect travelers. After hearing that he’d been with soldiers who killed 6 bandits the night before, and who had captured a bandit in Roumsiki while we were there, it was comforting to have this unexpected guest.
--The soldier left us, and we drove on, taking a side trip to Guider. This is another round huts with thatched roofs village, and a nearby nationally protected massive area of exposed granite and marble. It was swarming with those little motorcycles carrying young men and a few young women – “they all come here for Valentine’s Day, they go across (the canyon in the rocks).” We walked out to the edge and marveled at this evidence of ancient volcanic activity, and were mobbed by kids selling bagged water and peeled fresh oranges.
--Very tired, we finally arrived in Garoua about sunset, and were happy to stay again in our same room at the Diocesan rest house. Simple and good supper with the sisters and fathers. And Joe has fixed the computer!
--Its been an amazing Valentine’s Day that I’d do again with Joe in a heartbeat.
Sunday, February 13, 2011
February 13, 2011
February 13, 2011 –
--We were up at 6:15 am to see a lovely sunrise, and then per yesterday’s plans, we stepped onto a steep and winding trail that took us down to valley floor. Along the way our guide told us that the people we met were Nigerians heading for the market in Roumsiki. Today was market day – many Nigerian traders and local people were coming/going on the trail – I admired their stamina and strength as they passed us and continued up the trail at a good clip, carrying their heavy loads including many babies strapped on the women’s backs. Long ago, before anyone can remember, a Nigerian hunter, Roum, came to the largest mountain and decided to make his home there. The mountain was called Roum in his honor. People came to live with Roum, and after awhile the village grew there - Roumsiki, the People of Roum.
--In the valley we stopped to watch wood carvers, and we bargained for calabash bowls that we didn’t buy because the shopkeeper wouldn’t negotiate. We trudged on in the brightening warm sunshine. Ever so slowly we walked on up, up, up the steep trail and around Roum, the huge volcano core. We made our way back to town on the narrow paths between the houses, and stopped to talk about the Palaver Tree where the village leaders hold meetings and resolve disputes. I was slow – it was very, very hot.
--Finally we were back and cooled down on a shady veranda, had a nice brunch and a nap. Inevitably, we had laundry to be done – for probably the only time in my life, I hung my clean clothes on a baobab tree to dry outside our door.
--Late in the afternoon we joined Njoke, Thomas and our guide for a walk through Roumsiki. I was fascinated to see a woman with a handful of raw cotton fibers that she twisted in her fingers and wound it on a large bobbin – finger spinning. I watched her spinning, then we moved on and saw an old man and a boy seated at looms weaving thread like I’d just seen the woman spinning. Inside a thatched shelter there were crafts for sale, and the proprietor explained that the spinners and weavers were a coop. Fabrics they’d made were for sale and I couldn’t resist buying a piece that I think will become a beautiful lightweight jacket.
--We moved on through the village, to see the Crab Sorcerer. This very old man tells fortunes and answers questions. One asks a question and he interprets the crab’s answer. He has a jar of sand with a ring of small sticks just inside the edge. He places a few pieces of broken calabash strategically on the sand, then spits on the crab, talks to it, spits on it again, places the his live river crab on the assemblage, and covers it all with another bowl. He sits back to think and wait for a few moments, then removes the cover. He gives the answer to the question by interpreting the crab’s movements while it was covered. We each paid 1000 CFA ($2.00), asked a question, took pictures, thanked him, he blessed us by touching our feet with pieces of calabash, and we moved on to see more of the village and the market.
--Mobs of people selling things everywhere – aluminum ladles, African print fabrics, soap powder, dried beans, on and on. We sat on a bench under a thatch shelter to sample some locally-brewed millet beer from a calabash bowl – ugh! As it grew dark, we entered a room for our supper. This was a space where several Nigerian traders eat and bed down for the night – it was a fascinating scene. We loved our meal of millet fufu with spicy vegetable sauce and chicken, and of course, beer – yum.
--Back to room we discovered that the computer had crashed – no more internet, no more blog, eeek! Seemed as if bouncing along on the VLBDRs had finally done it in. Darn.
--We were up at 6:15 am to see a lovely sunrise, and then per yesterday’s plans, we stepped onto a steep and winding trail that took us down to valley floor. Along the way our guide told us that the people we met were Nigerians heading for the market in Roumsiki. Today was market day – many Nigerian traders and local people were coming/going on the trail – I admired their stamina and strength as they passed us and continued up the trail at a good clip, carrying their heavy loads including many babies strapped on the women’s backs. Long ago, before anyone can remember, a Nigerian hunter, Roum, came to the largest mountain and decided to make his home there. The mountain was called Roum in his honor. People came to live with Roum, and after awhile the village grew there - Roumsiki, the People of Roum.
--In the valley we stopped to watch wood carvers, and we bargained for calabash bowls that we didn’t buy because the shopkeeper wouldn’t negotiate. We trudged on in the brightening warm sunshine. Ever so slowly we walked on up, up, up the steep trail and around Roum, the huge volcano core. We made our way back to town on the narrow paths between the houses, and stopped to talk about the Palaver Tree where the village leaders hold meetings and resolve disputes. I was slow – it was very, very hot.
--Finally we were back and cooled down on a shady veranda, had a nice brunch and a nap. Inevitably, we had laundry to be done – for probably the only time in my life, I hung my clean clothes on a baobab tree to dry outside our door.
--Late in the afternoon we joined Njoke, Thomas and our guide for a walk through Roumsiki. I was fascinated to see a woman with a handful of raw cotton fibers that she twisted in her fingers and wound it on a large bobbin – finger spinning. I watched her spinning, then we moved on and saw an old man and a boy seated at looms weaving thread like I’d just seen the woman spinning. Inside a thatched shelter there were crafts for sale, and the proprietor explained that the spinners and weavers were a coop. Fabrics they’d made were for sale and I couldn’t resist buying a piece that I think will become a beautiful lightweight jacket.
--We moved on through the village, to see the Crab Sorcerer. This very old man tells fortunes and answers questions. One asks a question and he interprets the crab’s answer. He has a jar of sand with a ring of small sticks just inside the edge. He places a few pieces of broken calabash strategically on the sand, then spits on the crab, talks to it, spits on it again, places the his live river crab on the assemblage, and covers it all with another bowl. He sits back to think and wait for a few moments, then removes the cover. He gives the answer to the question by interpreting the crab’s movements while it was covered. We each paid 1000 CFA ($2.00), asked a question, took pictures, thanked him, he blessed us by touching our feet with pieces of calabash, and we moved on to see more of the village and the market.
--Mobs of people selling things everywhere – aluminum ladles, African print fabrics, soap powder, dried beans, on and on. We sat on a bench under a thatch shelter to sample some locally-brewed millet beer from a calabash bowl – ugh! As it grew dark, we entered a room for our supper. This was a space where several Nigerian traders eat and bed down for the night – it was a fascinating scene. We loved our meal of millet fufu with spicy vegetable sauce and chicken, and of course, beer – yum.
--Back to room we discovered that the computer had crashed – no more internet, no more blog, eeek! Seemed as if bouncing along on the VLBDRs had finally done it in. Darn.
Saturday, February 12, 2011
February 12, 2011
February 12, 2011 – Saturday
--We were up and on the road early. Thomas is a very good driver, careful to avoid the potholes without jerking us around, we felt safe and enjoyed the scenery. We drove a couple of hours, traveling through the very arid region, seeing baobab and other desert trees that don’t grow in Arizona, many more compounds of round adobe houses with thatched roofs, long-horned cows, goats, women carrying things on their heads walking beside the road, lines of school children walking home from school, people resting in the shade of large trees, roadside stands selling everything imaginable.
--In Garoua we stopped at a nice internet café, then turned on a rough dirt road to Roumsiki. This is a quaint village situated on the hillside s amidst large and scenic volcano cores nearby. All along the way saw more and more of the baobab trees and compounds of round and square rooms. Lots of cotton and millet are grown in this area. Roumsiki in the very remote, rugged, and beautiful far northeastern edge of Cameroon – you can see Nigeria across a small valley. We stayed in a buckaroo, ie, at a resort that features round huts with thatched roofs for the guest rooms – we were more than comfortable and loved the gorgeous canyon-edge view. Our room is charming, African prints at windows, beds, table covers, etc. etc. We were more than surprised to find the place has a swimming pool, and the guests included sun-bathing French girls on the cool deck!
--There were lots of people, donkeys, goats, pigs, cows – kids everywhere, too much to see! Two little ones scrambling up a hill yelling at 2 pigs that didn’t want to be caught were very entertaining! A mom noisily chastising her 2 toddlers who’d escaped with a water bucked – she drove them home ahead of her brandishing a switch to hurry them.
--We were up and on the road early. Thomas is a very good driver, careful to avoid the potholes without jerking us around, we felt safe and enjoyed the scenery. We drove a couple of hours, traveling through the very arid region, seeing baobab and other desert trees that don’t grow in Arizona, many more compounds of round adobe houses with thatched roofs, long-horned cows, goats, women carrying things on their heads walking beside the road, lines of school children walking home from school, people resting in the shade of large trees, roadside stands selling everything imaginable.
--In Garoua we stopped at a nice internet café, then turned on a rough dirt road to Roumsiki. This is a quaint village situated on the hillside s amidst large and scenic volcano cores nearby. All along the way saw more and more of the baobab trees and compounds of round and square rooms. Lots of cotton and millet are grown in this area. Roumsiki in the very remote, rugged, and beautiful far northeastern edge of Cameroon – you can see Nigeria across a small valley. We stayed in a buckaroo, ie, at a resort that features round huts with thatched roofs for the guest rooms – we were more than comfortable and loved the gorgeous canyon-edge view. Our room is charming, African prints at windows, beds, table covers, etc. etc. We were more than surprised to find the place has a swimming pool, and the guests included sun-bathing French girls on the cool deck!
--There were lots of people, donkeys, goats, pigs, cows – kids everywhere, too much to see! Two little ones scrambling up a hill yelling at 2 pigs that didn’t want to be caught were very entertaining! A mom noisily chastising her 2 toddlers who’d escaped with a water bucked – she drove them home ahead of her brandishing a switch to hurry them.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
February 10, 2011
February 10, 2011 – Wednesday
--We arrived in Ngaoundere very tired about 8:30 am. This is an arid region and we’re in the middle of the dry season. We passed through clean villages with houses made of adobe bricks and thatched roofs, people were primarily wearing Muslim attire. We got our bags, washed our faces in the very clean train station restrooms, and then we found a clean and inviting place to have breakfast across the commons at the station.
-- Njoke had arranged with his former university professor in Garoua for a vehicle and driver. Thomas is a driver with the University of Cameroon Dept. of Faun & Flore (Wildlife Science). Despite his authorization from the professor and the university to use the university’s truck, in Ngaoundere it was necessary to find a high level official to sanction the paperwork from the University, so we saw some of the city and the paperwork was signed.
--As we drove through and out of Ngaoundere, into the countryside we began seeing round thatched huts and mud brick houses clumped together in tight compounds with woven mat walls, trees here and there, people everywhere, many goats and cows, and it all looked very dry. We drove perhaps 100 km on a tarred road without many potholes.
--Then we turned in on a dirt road to Benoe Nat’l Park. Almost immediately we saw large antelope and waterbuck. As we drove along, we saw duiker, monkeys, many types of birds. We checked into our rooms, i.e., buckaroos – round, spacious, cool, African fabrics, very serene and comfy. We napped gratefully – we were very tired after last night’s train ride.
--We went for a drive thru the park seeing monkeys in the road, more antelope, waterbuck, and birds. We stopped, walked about a mile to the river, and voila! Hippos! Along the bank in small groups as far as we could see. We stood watching them quietly for more than an hour. They seemed oblivious that we were there – they rose and sank, blowing air, sometimes standing high enough that we could see an entire body. The males snorted, seeming to tell each other to keep their distance. We watched fish jumping for flies, saw a crocodile trail out of the river onto the bank and convinced ourselves that we saw its eyes above the river surface. Our guide invited us to return for a better look at the hippos at 6 am, and at the moment this was a definite ‘yes.’
--We trekked back to the compound, showered, supper was simple and delicious rice with meat sauce and crusty bread. Walking back to our room the night sky was bright and clear and we saw the stars which reminded us so much of home. We fell into bed hearing the river and whispering together about the hippos, “we’re in Africa!”
--We arrived in Ngaoundere very tired about 8:30 am. This is an arid region and we’re in the middle of the dry season. We passed through clean villages with houses made of adobe bricks and thatched roofs, people were primarily wearing Muslim attire. We got our bags, washed our faces in the very clean train station restrooms, and then we found a clean and inviting place to have breakfast across the commons at the station.
-- Njoke had arranged with his former university professor in Garoua for a vehicle and driver. Thomas is a driver with the University of Cameroon Dept. of Faun & Flore (Wildlife Science). Despite his authorization from the professor and the university to use the university’s truck, in Ngaoundere it was necessary to find a high level official to sanction the paperwork from the University, so we saw some of the city and the paperwork was signed.
--As we drove through and out of Ngaoundere, into the countryside we began seeing round thatched huts and mud brick houses clumped together in tight compounds with woven mat walls, trees here and there, people everywhere, many goats and cows, and it all looked very dry. We drove perhaps 100 km on a tarred road without many potholes.
--Then we turned in on a dirt road to Benoe Nat’l Park. Almost immediately we saw large antelope and waterbuck. As we drove along, we saw duiker, monkeys, many types of birds. We checked into our rooms, i.e., buckaroos – round, spacious, cool, African fabrics, very serene and comfy. We napped gratefully – we were very tired after last night’s train ride.
--We went for a drive thru the park seeing monkeys in the road, more antelope, waterbuck, and birds. We stopped, walked about a mile to the river, and voila! Hippos! Along the bank in small groups as far as we could see. We stood watching them quietly for more than an hour. They seemed oblivious that we were there – they rose and sank, blowing air, sometimes standing high enough that we could see an entire body. The males snorted, seeming to tell each other to keep their distance. We watched fish jumping for flies, saw a crocodile trail out of the river onto the bank and convinced ourselves that we saw its eyes above the river surface. Our guide invited us to return for a better look at the hippos at 6 am, and at the moment this was a definite ‘yes.’
--We trekked back to the compound, showered, supper was simple and delicious rice with meat sauce and crusty bread. Walking back to our room the night sky was bright and clear and we saw the stars which reminded us so much of home. We fell into bed hearing the river and whispering together about the hippos, “we’re in Africa!”
Tuesday, February 8, 2011
February 8, 2011
February 8, 2011 – Tuesday
--Njoke was at the train station at 7 am this morning, and purchased our tickets for the night train to Ngaoundere, estimated departure 6 pm with estimated arrival 7:30 am tomorrow morning.
--We spent the morning sight-seeing around Yaounde, sometimes called the City of Seven Hills. Yaounde is the capital city of The Republic of Cameroon. In every sector city we passed governmental office buildings with a significant military presence; it is forbidden to photograph them and the soldiers were convincing, so we didn't. --Njoke was at the train station at 7 am this morning, and purchased our tickets for the night train to Ngaoundere, estimated departure 6 pm with estimated arrival 7:30 am tomorrow morning.
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| Downtown Yaounde |
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| President Paul Bia's Palace |
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| Looking Out Over Yaounde toward Bia's Palace |
We had lunch again at Les Sorciers, ie, the Sorcerers’ Corner, enjoying crisp roasted pork and cold beer, and people-watching until time to go to the train station.
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| Our Beer Waitress |
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| Njoke Buying Our Lunch |
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| Mobile Plastics Wares Sales |
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| Taxi Stand |
After waiting an hour in a comfortable lobby at the train station, with very clean restrooms, we boarded and waited another hour – we slowly pulled away from the station in the 6:20 pm twilight, heading north.
--Almost immediately Njoke was greeted by Fr. Felix, a Holy Father he’d met at the train station this morning. They’d talked, helped each other with the ticketing process, and Njoke gave Father a ride somewhere. Tonight they found their seats were together! we learned that Fr. Felix has worked in parishes throughout northern Cameroon for the past 30 years and knows everyone. He said the Diocese of Garoua has a large rest house associated with the parish there, and it also runs rest houses in other cities that we’ll visit. Fr. Felix called the sisters and made reservations for us, and he left Njoke with names and phone numbers in case we might need them. His graciousness is consistent with the way we’re received everywhere in Cameroon.
--Almost immediately Njoke was greeted by Fr. Felix, a Holy Father he’d met at the train station this morning. They’d talked, helped each other with the ticketing process, and Njoke gave Father a ride somewhere. Tonight they found their seats were together! we learned that Fr. Felix has worked in parishes throughout northern Cameroon for the past 30 years and knows everyone. He said the Diocese of Garoua has a large rest house associated with the parish there, and it also runs rest houses in other cities that we’ll visit. Fr. Felix called the sisters and made reservations for us, and he left Njoke with names and phone numbers in case we might need them. His graciousness is consistent with the way we’re received everywhere in Cameroon.
--It was hard to sleep sitting up despite the very generous leg room. The train stopped at about a dozen villages along the way where passengers got on and off, and at every stop hawkers came to the windows and through the aisles selling manioc, bananas, chewing gum, Cameroon maps, phone cards, soft drinks, clothing, pastries, etc., etc. The 2d class section would have been far more chaotic with the vendors and the passengers' loud nonstop music, crying babies, numerous conversations all around, and less leg room. Initially all the windows were wide open but coolness came gradually through the night and people closed them and put on heavy jackets – folks here are acclimated differently - we found the cool breezes most welcome. We were advised not to eat the food prepared in the dining car so we bought soft drinks and snacked on things we had with us. The Toilette was reasonably clean with no toilet seat (a common finding) - it was tricky to balance while the train was swaying along... There was little to see along the way since it was dark outside, but I can tell you what the train stations look like at night along the way! And sunrise was lovely.
Monday, February 7, 2011
February 7, 2011
February 7, 2011 – Monday
Our trip focus is changing again - we've been in the southwest and the northwest regions, now we're heading for the northern part of the country. We’ve sorted and consolidated our belongings so’s to leave most of it in the hotel security room while we’re in the north; we’ll each live out of 1 small bag because we want to keep our things in direct line of sight on the train. I’m challenged – I want to wear pants in the parks where we’ll be hiking through the forest, and in the very conservative north I should wear dresses and cover my head when we’re in the towns, and I want to buy souvenirs which will have to go in my bag. I'm packing lightly, we'll wash things often to dry overnight in our room. I'm excited!--Early today we visited APE Africa near Yaounde – if a primate must live in a sanctuary, this is the place to be. The enclosures are each many hectares in size, enclosed with high electrified fencing. The enclosure interiors are natural forest where groups of monkeys, gorillas and chimpanzees live in the treetops and the grass. The Alpha gorilla came right to the fence, 3 feet away, to stand and look us over for 10 minutes.
The chimpanzee nursery was fun – about a dozen youngsters playfully busy in their enclosure; we learned they go for daily forest walks with their keepers so as to learn how to live in the wild again. The area was really loud with bursts of chimp talk. A dozen or more adolescent walked along inside just their fence as we passed, stopping when we did, clearly curious about us and wanting to interact. If you hold a stick and get your scent on it, then push it through the fence, a chimp will take and smell it, add his/her scent and pass it back – they’ll do this all day if you keep the game going. They throw things at you – pebbles, sticks, etc. They hugged and groomed each other, and playfully peeked like human children. There also are Miniature Chimpanzees – found to be more intelligent than their larger chimpanzee cousins.
Several rare species of monkeys from Cameroon, baboons, drills also live here – all stirringly wonderful. All the animals here were rescued from poachers whose illegal goal was to sell them for stewpots, traditional medicine and the babies as pets. At this center, those that can be rehabilitated will eventually be released back to the wild - their keepers take them out regularly for forest walks to learn how to live independently. Our guide impressed us with his vast knowledge and great love for primates and all of nature.
--The mission of APE Africa is to extinguish primate poaching. They target education in local schools because reaching the children is the best way to influence their parents’ attitudes, beliefs and behaviors about poaching. Community education about the very real health risks associated with poaching is another very important activity. This project is also an important international primate research destination.
Midafternoon we went to the train station to get our tickets - but tonight’s train was completely sold out! Nothing to do but stay another night in Yaounde. We went to another spot for Export 33 and supper - we discovered that the intersection is called the Sorcerer's Corner. Again, Njoke had found a place that turned out to be just right – we sat under a shade facing a typically busy intersectio n. We ordered beer while he went to find roasted pork and accoutrements. He returned, beer and then dinner appeared from different directions. We devoured a platter of pork, spicy sauce and grilled plantain, and then we ordered another platter which also went right down.
Our trip focus is changing again - we've been in the southwest and the northwest regions, now we're heading for the northern part of the country. We’ve sorted and consolidated our belongings so’s to leave most of it in the hotel security room while we’re in the north; we’ll each live out of 1 small bag because we want to keep our things in direct line of sight on the train. I’m challenged – I want to wear pants in the parks where we’ll be hiking through the forest, and in the very conservative north I should wear dresses and cover my head when we’re in the towns, and I want to buy souvenirs which will have to go in my bag. I'm packing lightly, we'll wash things often to dry overnight in our room. I'm excited!--Early today we visited APE Africa near Yaounde – if a primate must live in a sanctuary, this is the place to be. The enclosures are each many hectares in size, enclosed with high electrified fencing. The enclosure interiors are natural forest where groups of monkeys, gorillas and chimpanzees live in the treetops and the grass. The Alpha gorilla came right to the fence, 3 feet away, to stand and look us over for 10 minutes.
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| Silverback Alpha Male Gorilla |
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| Npho and Chimp Passing a Stick to Each Other |
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Chimpanzee thinking, watching, waiting for something to happen?
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| Very Large Old Tree at APE Africa |
--The mission of APE Africa is to extinguish primate poaching. They target education in local schools because reaching the children is the best way to influence their parents’ attitudes, beliefs and behaviors about poaching. Community education about the very real health risks associated with poaching is another very important activity. This project is also an important international primate research destination.
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| Fresh-Roasted Peanuts for the Trip |
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| Yaounde Railroad Station - In Line to Buy Train Tickets |
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| Npho and His Long-Lost Sister |
Sunday, February 6, 2011
February 6, 2011
February 6, 2011 – Sunday
--Our laundry is all clean again, thanks to the helpful rest house staff. All our belongings were loaded, and we and left Bamenda by 7 am, going generally south for a couple of hours We stopped at a roadside place for breakfast of locally grown spicy black beans and rice, and avocado that we brought with us – I can’t say enough good things about this meal! Back in the truck and on down the road, paved nearly all the way, to Bafoussam and then on a little farther to Foumban to visit a large Fon's palace. Along the way the houses changed from flat or thatched roofs to tall tin pyramids.
The palace is a UNESCO Heritage Site; we were not allowed to take pictures inside, but we did tour the palace museum. This huge palace was built by the ruling Fon in 1913. Its 3 stories are constructed of red clay bricks with interior stairs and floors all of hand polished dark wood; the architectural style shows how important the British influence was then. This dynasty's Fons are documented back to the late 1300s, and there are artifacts associated with most of them. Beautiful carvings, feather capes, beaded capes and masks, locally forged and skillful ironwork and statuary. Perhaps we should not have been startled by the very graphic displays of weapons and trophies that depicted the cruelties done in earlier times to enemies – but we were. As we considered a little more, we realized that what we saw here has been done by people to other people the world over – man is really not a peaceful animal.
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| Paved Road between Bamenda and Bafoussam |
 Near Bafoussam - House with Tall Tin Pyramid Roof |
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| The Fon's Palace in Foumba |
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| Stairs leading to the Palace Museum |
We had a flat tire leaving Bafoussam, so Joe and I waited with the truck for an hour while Njoke and Npho took it in a push cart to a tire repair shop. We happened to be near a small interurban bus stop, and watched an over-full 9-passenger van add 4 more passengers, and up to the top went 4 goats complaining loudly, 2 very large woven fiber bags of live chickens, 3-4 big heavy stalks of plantains, a few suitcases, and about half a dozen long large heavy bags of goods. Everything was secured with ropes, another passenger climbed in, and off they went – the goats looked very unhappy. An apparently mentally ill man who seemed to be responding to internal stimuli stood across the street; he stared at us, chanted loudly, did something with a piece of metal in his mouth, held his arms outward for a long while, and kept his eyes on us – people walked around him as if he were a signpost. Dozens of the little motorcycles that are used for taxis darted past us within inches, picking up and depositing passengers. A man was steam-washing a large tanker truck a dozen yards away. There was a market 100 yards up the street – people carried everything imaginable on their heads as they streamed by, the traffic was unending.
--Npho and Njoke returned with the tire, paid the boy who had volunteered the use of his cart, the tire was back on the truck in no time, and off we went, good as new. We drove and drove on a good paved road, heading for Yaounde, and stopped at a "truckstop" for late lunch of hot grilled fish, roasted plantains, spicy sauce and Export 33. The fish and sauce were indescribably delicious to us who typically don't enjoy fish – oh my gosh! Eating with our hands, we savored every last bit, then washed away the last traces in a basin or water. These meals are always amazing – we arrive at a very unlikely looking roadside place, Joe and I find seats on a bench at a wooden plank table, and a waitress appears to wash the table and take our beer order. About the time that the beer arrives, Njoke shows up – he’s been shopping the many food vendors between our eating establishment and on down the road for our food. The waitress brings a basin of cool water which we share in turn, washing our hands there at the table, generally we either share a towel or there is none. Then someone else turns up from one or more of the food stands nearby with platters that we share, or sometimes plates are provided, frequently there is no silverware and we eat with our fingers. The basin is provided again after we've eaten. --Njoke explained why he didn’t choose the roasted meat that looked good as we passed a brazier – “too many flies, it didn’t look good – it was probably cooked 1-2 days ago and the woman couldn’t sell it all so she kept it (unrefrigerated) last night and made to look fresh today by pouring palm oil on it, you have to be very careful.”
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Where We Waited in Bafoussam for the Tire to be Fixed
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| Taking the Tire to the Tire Repair Shop |
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| Putting the Tire Back on the Truck |
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| Likely a Good Place to Eat |
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| Man doing laundry beside the road in the outskirts of Yaounde |
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| Outskirts of Yaounde |
We drove on, holding tight and praying that we'd arrive safely - Cameroon drivers aren't known to be cautious and there are many very serious accidents on this road.
As the twilight and then darkness gathered, we drove into Yaounde – the capital of Cameroon, population about 1 million.
Traffic is heavy: people on foot with loads on their heads, mototaxis, people pushing or pulling carts, yellow taxi cabs, huge trucks, personal vehicles – its loud and congested.
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| Early Evening in Yaounde |
Saturday, February 5, 2011
February 5, 2011
February 5, 2011 – Saturday
--Today started quite pleasantly. We shared breakfast with a rest house guest from Canada Virginia
--We visited Cameroon Alternative Technology (CAT) where we saw and learned about some fascinating demonstration models made from found materials: equipment for solar cooking, water heating, environmentally-friendly outdoor toilets for urban dwellers with no indoor plumbing, recycled vegetation for fertilizer production, etc. I think Joe is ready to convert our house, and say good-bye to the grid!
--In this building I peeked in a doorway with a sign, “Women Income Generating Solution” and lo! a small doll-making project. I talked at length with the director, admired the dolls, and could not resist buying two African children dressed in Cameroonian costumes. I hope to keep contact here and arrange to offer some for sale at the annual Christmas gift sale at Our Saviour. The proceeds are divided in 1/3s among the women who make the dolls, support to sustain the project, supplies for doll-making, and 10% is saved toward program growth and/or emergency loans to the participating women. The director’s passion is AIDS orphans – I’m putting her and Ruth in touch with each other.
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| Center for Appropriate Technology Headquarters |
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| Solar Cooker Made from a Satellite Dish |
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Solar Cooker, Outdoor Odorless Toilet, Solar Food Dehydrator, Solar Water | |||
| Learning About Alternative Energy Products and Projects - Barbara is holding her new "grandchildren" |
--In this building I peeked in a doorway with a sign, “Women Income Generating Solution” and lo! a small doll-making project. I talked at length with the director, admired the dolls, and could not resist buying two African children dressed in Cameroonian costumes. I hope to keep contact here and arrange to offer some for sale at the annual Christmas gift sale at Our Saviour. The proceeds are divided in 1/3s among the women who make the dolls, support to sustain the project, supplies for doll-making, and 10% is saved toward program growth and/or emergency loans to the participating women. The director’s passion is AIDS orphans – I’m putting her and Ruth in touch with each other.
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| Amazing Handmade African Dolls Inside! |
--Then we went to Njoke’s office in downtown Bamenda. With his colleague, we talked at length about their work as conservationists in Cameroon
The tourism concept isn’t well understood and does not yet have strong governmental support. The hotel and souvenir industries seem to have a better grasp of the potential benefits for the country from tourism. Nonetheless, word of Cameroon
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| Street Entrance to Njoke's Downstairs Office |
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| Njoke at his desk in the Nature Concerns Office |
--Remember the chicken that the Fon gave me a few days ago? Njoke’s wife Aggie prepared a magnificent feast for us – fufu, njama-njama, and the chicken. Njoke brought Aggie, his youngest daughter, and his colleague. They, Npho, Joe and I enjoyed this meal – Aggie cooks very well, and we were all full and quite content. We spent an hour talking, and everyone helped to name the dolls.
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| On the porch at our rest house enjoying the Fon's Chicken, Njama-njama, and fufu with Njoke's Family |
 Niassa holding Fatima Precious, Barbara, Aggie holding Ali Haj Moosh |
Friday, February 4, 2011
February 4, 2011
February 4, 2011 - Friday
--By the time this day had ended, I was on sensory overload - oh my gosh! what we saw and did! this was an amazing day.
--We left early heading for Babungo to see the Fon’s palace – today’s road is mostly paved with only a short piece of VBDR. There are avocados left from yesterday, and we stopped in Ndop for breakfast of locally grown black beans and rice, spiced with hot sauce and the avocado which all together made magic.
--The Fon’s palace at Babungo was truly interesting. Fon is a hereditary title that is used for the highly revered, respected and influential village and regional traditional leaders/rulers. The Babungo Fon’s lineage has been documented back to the 1400s. All of the Fons in this lineage have been gifted carvers, and over time the people have managed to preserve much of their works which include masks, stools, beds, statuary, and ornamentation on walls, doorways, windows, and posts that support porch roofs, etc.
--We paid 2000 CFA ($4.00) each for admission, and another 5000 CFA ($10.00) for permission to use our cameras. The Fon and his docent were not at home, but a very pregnant wife toured us through the Fon’s Dynasty Museum and then through the outer chambers of the Fon’s Palace – the inner chambers which include sleeping and food preparation areas and are never opened to the public.
--My heart sings! we visited a long term residential and outpatient psychiatric treatment center near Babungo – I can’t begin to say how very impressed I am with their philosophy and work. Their treatment philosphy is holistic – traditional medicines are used together with western medications to treat the whole person. Patients have 1:1 attendants 24/7 which assures that they don’t wander away, have unobserved seizures, or other crises necessitating someone to help. The staff are well-trained, mostly kind local people who donate their time. That they really like their patients is obvious – they work, eat, rest and visit together in pairs and small groups. Staff present culturally sensitive education programs with the patients, families and the surrounding communities and schools about the causes, symptoms and treatments for psychiatric illnesses, living with AIDS, AIDS prevention and treatment, environmental and personal sanitation and hygiene, etc.
--There are only two psychiatrists who live and work in all of Cameroon; one of them makes monthly visits here to consult with patients and assist with staff training.
--This center also provides medical care for the psychiatric patients “because they never have just one thing.” They are developing an outpatient health center to serve the neighboring villages. There is no onsite doctor, the nurses have learned through their years of experience and they are the primary healthcare providers. I gave them the last of the medicaments that I brought to Cameroon.
--The buildings were built using village workers labor and Habitat for Humanity volunteers, and the building materials were bought with loan money which the center struggles to repay. A Dutch psychiatric nurse has been a volunteer here for the past 8 years. A Swiss health aid group helps the center to get pharmaceuticals and medical supplies, but cannot meet the need. The center raises chickens and pigs which they eat and sell, they grow much of their own vegetables and medicinal herbs, they operate some wonderful guest houses, and the residents make and sell handcrafts. All this, and the setting is beautiful.
--Next we drove to a crafts and pottery manufacturing center in Bamessing. It is supported by the Presbyterian Church which facilitates export and international sales to international vendors including Ten Thousand Villages. Ultimately the proceeds go to the potters and craftsmen. The manager took us for a start-to-finish tour. The clay comes from an adjacent site, all hand dug. It is partially dried a few days, then wrapped in plastic and stored underground in a controlled environment till its needed. When needed, the clay is dried completely, then pounded by hand with a big stick of wood to a fine powder, then mixed with water, slacked for a time, and drained. Then it is ready to be shaped. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the soil chemistry and chemical changes that transpire during firing and glazing. With a foot-driven potter’s wheel he demonstrated he is an accomplished potter. Next we pots loading in the wood-fired kiln for firing, last how glaze is applies and fired. Finally we went to the sales room where we were dazzled with the array of pottery and other crafts. It was hard, but we chose 2 mugs which will help to make Peggi and Robert's morning coffee very special.
--We returned to Bamenda where we were expected at a small Christian-based support center for Cameroonian prison inmates and social re-entry support for released prisoners and their families. Again, we were startled with the welcome. Two gracious older gentlemen dressed in traditional Northern Cameroon garb talked about their 9-year-old program’s work. Then we were introduced to a man who talked about having been incarcerated 3 times for a total 9 years, outside for a total of 5 months during that time. When he met the two older men, he realized he was wasting his life and hurting his 5 children and all his family. He found his faith, completed his sentence, and has not engaged in criminal activity for the past 5 years. For the first time in his life he has recognition – he is the president of this organization that works to salvage prisoners and ex-convicts. Another guest and member of this movement was the Assistant Director of Cameroon Prisons. We talked about our respective US and Cameroon experiences with prisons and prisoners, and we agreed to do what we can to support this group and its work. After grace, we shared a meal of fufu and greens with Export 33. We took advantage of their showroom and bought several things made by prisoners who are learning trades that are expected will help them not to return to prison after their sentences are completed. A delightful unexpected and welcome surprise was seeing Juliette from the Traditional Healers’ Group – she donates traditional medicine to prisoners who are sick, and she was there on an errand.
--About suppertime Elizabeth arrived at the rest house with my dresses. House rules here do not allow anyone to come inside who is not a registered guest – we used the visiting area past our building as a dressing and fitting room. It was tricky learning how to tie my new headgear and skirt, but Elizabeth is a patient teacher and I think I’ve got it. I know that I’ll enjoy wearing my new finery.
--By the time this day had ended, I was on sensory overload - oh my gosh! what we saw and did! this was an amazing day.
--We left early heading for Babungo to see the Fon’s palace – today’s road is mostly paved with only a short piece of VBDR. There are avocados left from yesterday, and we stopped in Ndop for breakfast of locally grown black beans and rice, spiced with hot sauce and the avocado which all together made magic.
--The Fon’s palace at Babungo was truly interesting. Fon is a hereditary title that is used for the highly revered, respected and influential village and regional traditional leaders/rulers. The Babungo Fon’s lineage has been documented back to the 1400s. All of the Fons in this lineage have been gifted carvers, and over time the people have managed to preserve much of their works which include masks, stools, beds, statuary, and ornamentation on walls, doorways, windows, and posts that support porch roofs, etc.
--We paid 2000 CFA ($4.00) each for admission, and another 5000 CFA ($10.00) for permission to use our cameras. The Fon and his docent were not at home, but a very pregnant wife toured us through the Fon’s Dynasty Museum and then through the outer chambers of the Fon’s Palace – the inner chambers which include sleeping and food preparation areas and are never opened to the public.
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| Men Preparing for a Dance |
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| Front Entrance to Fon's Palace |
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| Carvings Made by Many Generations of Fons |
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| Photo of the Current Fon |
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| Secret Society House, Behind is the Secret Forest |
--My heart sings! we visited a long term residential and outpatient psychiatric treatment center near Babungo – I can’t begin to say how very impressed I am with their philosophy and work. Their treatment philosphy is holistic – traditional medicines are used together with western medications to treat the whole person. Patients have 1:1 attendants 24/7 which assures that they don’t wander away, have unobserved seizures, or other crises necessitating someone to help. The staff are well-trained, mostly kind local people who donate their time. That they really like their patients is obvious – they work, eat, rest and visit together in pairs and small groups. Staff present culturally sensitive education programs with the patients, families and the surrounding communities and schools about the causes, symptoms and treatments for psychiatric illnesses, living with AIDS, AIDS prevention and treatment, environmental and personal sanitation and hygiene, etc.
 |
| The Setting of Babungo Integrated Health Center |
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| Walking Toward the Patients' Quarters |
--There are only two psychiatrists who live and work in all of Cameroon; one of them makes monthly visits here to consult with patients and assist with staff training.
--This center also provides medical care for the psychiatric patients “because they never have just one thing.” They are developing an outpatient health center to serve the neighboring villages. There is no onsite doctor, the nurses have learned through their years of experience and they are the primary healthcare providers. I gave them the last of the medicaments that I brought to Cameroon.
--The buildings were built using village workers labor and Habitat for Humanity volunteers, and the building materials were bought with loan money which the center struggles to repay. A Dutch psychiatric nurse has been a volunteer here for the past 8 years. A Swiss health aid group helps the center to get pharmaceuticals and medical supplies, but cannot meet the need. The center raises chickens and pigs which they eat and sell, they grow much of their own vegetables and medicinal herbs, they operate some wonderful guest houses, and the residents make and sell handcrafts. All this, and the setting is beautiful.
--Next we drove to a crafts and pottery manufacturing center in Bamessing. It is supported by the Presbyterian Church which facilitates export and international sales to international vendors including Ten Thousand Villages. Ultimately the proceeds go to the potters and craftsmen. The manager took us for a start-to-finish tour. The clay comes from an adjacent site, all hand dug. It is partially dried a few days, then wrapped in plastic and stored underground in a controlled environment till its needed. When needed, the clay is dried completely, then pounded by hand with a big stick of wood to a fine powder, then mixed with water, slacked for a time, and drained. Then it is ready to be shaped. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the soil chemistry and chemical changes that transpire during firing and glazing. With a foot-driven potter’s wheel he demonstrated he is an accomplished potter. Next we pots loading in the wood-fired kiln for firing, last how glaze is applies and fired. Finally we went to the sales room where we were dazzled with the array of pottery and other crafts. It was hard, but we chose 2 mugs which will help to make Peggi and Robert's morning coffee very special.
 |
| Pottery Plant Manager Throwing a Pot |
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| Selecting Mugs for Peggi and Robert |
--We returned to Bamenda where we were expected at a small Christian-based support center for Cameroonian prison inmates and social re-entry support for released prisoners and their families. Again, we were startled with the welcome. Two gracious older gentlemen dressed in traditional Northern Cameroon garb talked about their 9-year-old program’s work. Then we were introduced to a man who talked about having been incarcerated 3 times for a total 9 years, outside for a total of 5 months during that time. When he met the two older men, he realized he was wasting his life and hurting his 5 children and all his family. He found his faith, completed his sentence, and has not engaged in criminal activity for the past 5 years. For the first time in his life he has recognition – he is the president of this organization that works to salvage prisoners and ex-convicts. Another guest and member of this movement was the Assistant Director of Cameroon Prisons. We talked about our respective US and Cameroon experiences with prisons and prisoners, and we agreed to do what we can to support this group and its work. After grace, we shared a meal of fufu and greens with Export 33. We took advantage of their showroom and bought several things made by prisoners who are learning trades that are expected will help them not to return to prison after their sentences are completed. A delightful unexpected and welcome surprise was seeing Juliette from the Traditional Healers’ Group – she donates traditional medicine to prisoners who are sick, and she was there on an errand.
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| Traditional Northwest Cameroon Men's Attire |
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| Assistant Director of Cameroon Prisons |
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| Founder of the Prisoners Reform Group |
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| Rehabilitated Former Prisoner |
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| President of Prison Reform Group and Joe - this man made Joe's hat |
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| Founder, Joe, Barbara, President and Reformed Convict, Assistant Prisons Director, Traditional Man |
--About suppertime Elizabeth arrived at the rest house with my dresses. House rules here do not allow anyone to come inside who is not a registered guest – we used the visiting area past our building as a dressing and fitting room. It was tricky learning how to tie my new headgear and skirt, but Elizabeth is a patient teacher and I think I’ve got it. I know that I’ll enjoy wearing my new finery.
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