NP in Cameroon

Cameroonian foods

2011-05-07T17:18:00.001-07:00

February 26, 2011

2011-02-26T09:34:00.001-07:00

We woke up too early and couldn't get back to sleep - the joys of international travel! Shortly we caught up with Peggi and Robert for a very leisurely breakfast. Then we went to my car where my phone was patiently waiting for me! after charging it, to my joy all the information was still there. United Airlines called Peggi to let her know that our carry-on bags had arrived at Sky Harbor-Phoenix - sure enough, they were waiting for us at the airport and now all our bags are with us again.

--We spent the day visiting with Peg and Robert, catching up with family news, and absorbing the fact that we're no longer in Cameroon. For supper we bought some charcoaled ribs with green chile salsa and some fresh fruit, and spread them out on the bed in our hotel room for a feast. Sleep deprivation caught up with us, and we were in bed early.

February 25, 2011

2011-02-25T17:26:00.000-07:00

February 25, 2011 – Friday
--Once in the air, dinner was served and then the lights went out. Somewhere, over Libya?, I saw lights that looked like large fires – I worried, then felt reassured that they were communities and ok. Maybe they were oil refineries burning off wastes? I couldn’t sleep. At 6 am breakfast was served. We arrived in Brussels at 7 am, went through more security checks getting to our connecting flight – our passports remained in our hands since we needed to show them so often. Then we were the waiting area only to find that the internet kiosks were not in service – darn! We killed 4 hours.
--12:30 pm – We boarded United Airlines for Washington-Dulles almost 9 flying hours away, and earlier clock time – Cameroon is 8 hours later than Arizona. An ok midday meal was served. The flight was crowded and seating was tight – I was glad to have the window seat, but I was restless and it was still very hard to sleep.
--We arrived at Dulles at 2:15 pm EST – tired and dazed. As with all arriving international flights, we had to collect our check-in luggage and have it checked by US Customs before it could be loaded on the plane to Phoenix. When we got the luggage, one check-in bag missing, and we had to wait for it to be sent and catch up to us. Eventually we got all our check-in and carry-on luggage and went through customs w/o incident. We picked up the bags and rechecked them – including our carry-ons – dang! The baggage handler checked and couldn’t find our bags, he said they’re already gone and he couldn’t retrieve them. Then we spoke with United Airlines Customer Service who said the same and took our information – we fear the 2 check-in bags may not have adequate identification since they were never checked in.
--With the baggage snafus, when we got to the gate our flight was already boarding – that layover whizzed by!
--The last leg of our journey. We left Dulles at 5 pm, and after almost 6 hours we arrived at Phx Sky Harbor, at 8:00 pm. Peggi was there! Robert circled the airport with the car while we did the luggage gig. We hugged and danced around the baggage carousel. Chattering happily, very tired, we got the 3 check-in bags, but the carry-on bags didn’t come on this flight. So we met again with United Airlines Customer Service and gave descriptive info. When the bags arrive they’ll fly them to Show Low Airport.
--It was good to hear family news, so, so wonderful! And we had American fast food for supper – I’d looked forward to this and wasn’t disappointed. Then Motel 8 in Apache Junction, and to sleep.

February 24, 2011

2011-02-24T17:13:00.000-07:00

February 24, 2011 – Thursday
--I woke early and began packing in earnest for our flight. I made the final decision to leave much of my clothing for WEH so as to accommodate everything we want to take home. After the packing was completed and we counted our bags, we had only 3 check-ins – why? We’d arrived with 2 check-ins each and our respective carry-on bags, ie, 4 check-ins and carry-ons. We finally figured out that we’d used the smaller duffle as a dirty clothes bag, and when we had our laundry done in Bamenda we didn’t notice that it wasn’t returned when our clean clothes showed up in our room. Oh well – less to carry, and going home we’re a lot lighter than we were when we came 2 months ago.
--There’s no internet service anywhere in the neighborhood – Joe went to the internet café where we’ve been before, and on the way back he stopped at the Marche for a bag of cookies.
--We got a ride to the airport and checked our bags in early. Then back home for farewell dinner. At Ruth’s request, I prepared dinner using the Arizona seasonings I’d brought as a house gift. We had roasted pork with chorizo-stuffing using Ruth’s “sophisticated” pork – she raises her own pigs so’s to know what they eat, and they’re really good.
--We were back at the airport at 10:30 pm to check ourselves in. We showed our passports at least 8 times from check-in until we arrived in the passengers lobby! Just outside the lobby there was a food vendor with sandwiches and cold drinks in a cooler. Joe went out of the lobby to get things for us, but he was not allowed to bring them in. I joined him and we gulped down 1.5 L water and large can beer. Then we showed our passports again to re-enter the passengers lobby where our carry-on luggage was patiently waiting for us – it had been in full view while we had our drinks. We boarded Brussels Airlines at 12:30 am, about 30 minutes earlier than original ticketed time.

February 23, 2011

2011-02-23T16:56:00.000-07:00

February 23, 2011 – Wednesday
--Over breakfast we discovered we’d miscalculated our return date – 2/24 12:50 am means we have to leave today vs. tomorrow. We called Njoke – we’d made plans to have today, our last tour day on the Rim Road seeing Lake Awi and eating again in Belo. Changing plans wasn’t too convenient for him, but he and Npho are flexible and said this could be done. They agreed that Sam could ride along with us – his assignment in Cameroon is over and he’ll fly home to Victoria the day after we leave. Njoke and Npho were there at noon, and we loaded all our belongings into the truck. We’d phoned Ruth to let her know we’re coming a day early, gathered and packed laundry and belongings. --Lunch along the way was at a place next to a gas station with reasonable restroom! Roasted pork and plantains with “33” – I’m sad that this is the last of these amazing meals.
--The 7-hour drive from Bamenda to Douala was beautiful, but a little anxiety-provoking. For the past few days we’d started to hear warnings not to go to Yaounde or Douala because demonstrations were planned – the north African unrest is spreading across the continent. National elections will be next fall, and there is already dissention. We were stopped a few times by militia who checked us all much more carefully than in the past few weeks – we repeatedly showed our passports and explained that we were on our way home to America the next day. We were pretty edgy.
--In Douala, Njoke amazed us again by finding Sam’s hotel without difficulty. When we were in the Titis’ neighborhood, with one phone call he got us to Ruth’s house. At the gate Joe and I spilled out of the truck to greet Elois. At the front door we introduced and hugged Ruth and Carol, then we said our farewells and thanks to Njoke and Npho.
--We were tired. Dinner was wonderful. It felt really good to be “home” again, and to fall in bed early. We’ll fly tomorrow night.

February 22, 2011

2011-02-22T16:29:00.001-07:00

February 22, 2011 – Tuesday
--Today is my birthday – now I’m a septuagenarian! I don’t feel any older or different.
--Saw patients with Godlove. Lunch at CBCHB Canteen Afternoon ride in his car to Mbingo Hospital.
--Met with Dr. Palmer – offer to come teach NPs and psychiatry to residents
--Toured some of hospital, met Administrator
--Snacks in Mbingo canteen, visited with his staff and social workers.
--Drove back to town – stopped at Circle-K-like place for American hamburgers, bargained for watermelons.
--Car wouldn’t start – got a push, pusher jumped in to drive, down a hill and around we went, car started, driver couldn’t get it in reverse…
--Njoke to take us to Lake Awi tomorrow – last tour activity.

February 21, 2011

2011-02-21T16:42:00.000-07:00

February 21, 2011 – Monday

--I was up early, very excited - I walked across the street to his office, CBCHB- Community Counseling Center – coincidentally I work for Community Counseling Centers at home in Arizona! We’re seeing patients again today. The CBCHB doctors do their best, but the formulary is limited, and none of them are psychiatrists or know much of anything about psychotropics. When they’ve tried and failed, they refer psychiatric patients to Godlove. We saw 3 patients, one of whom has been taking antipsychotics which are partially controlling her tormenting voices but she’s developed severe muscle pain and stiffness – the prescribing doctor sent her to Godlove to see what he can do. I knew immediately that she was having side effects to her antipsychotics and sent the lady’s husband to a pharmacy for benztropine which we use regularly in the US. He returned after trying 7 pharmacies, none of which had ever heard of benztropine – hmmm? The only option was to recommend Benedryl which will work, but taking enough of it will make her very sleepy day and night.

--Godlove took me to lunch at Friendship, then I had the afternoon off to stroll around the neighborhood with Joe.

--We had another new adventure. Sam Waller is a Canadian accountant who is here to help some community counsels develop record-keeping systems. Several times we’ve enjoyed visiting over breakfast, and today we decided to take a taxi to town to a restaurant that he recommended, Dreamland. Taxis here are very inexpensive, about 500 cfa ($1.00) per person – it seems the drivers must make their money by the volume of fares. It is common for a taxi to carry 7-8 people with a lot of personal belongings – people go a few blocks and get out and others climb in. So, we got in and Sam told the driver we’re going to Dreamland. It wasn’t long till our taxi had more people going the same general direction that we were. We arrived at an unfamiliar street and the taxi stopped midblock, “this is it” said Sam. We climbed a steep 2-story flight of stairs with no landing, and entered a lovely restaurant with white table cloths and formally attired wait staff. At our request, we were seated on the balcony where we watched the street below. The food was good – spicy chicken, rice, fried plantains, red sauce, hot sauce, pepper soup – yum! Then back to the Rest House in another taxi, repeating the trip in reverse.

February 20, 2011

2011-02-20T16:29:00.000-07:00

February 20 2011 – Sunday

--Today began with bright and beautiful skies – there was some rain last night and much of the dust is gone and the air is clear and pleasantly fresh. We dressed and walked a short distance to the Baptist Church adjacent to the CBCHB compound. Last night at supper we were told that services are 7:00 am-9:30 am, and 9:30 am-noon. We arrived at 9:30 to find several Sunday school classes in session – a man greeted us warmly and encouraged Joe to join the men’s group and me the ladies’ group, but we opted to sit quietly together drinking it all in. The service began at 10 with the Women’s choir wearing their matching dresses, singing and dancing up the aisle to the beat of drums. The next 2 hours flew by with prayers, songs, sermon offered in both African English and French, and of course introductions of visitors. The last notes of the recessional hymn faded, and we walked out to greet the pastor.

--As we started the walk home, we were approached by a boy who said he has questions about America and asked if he could visit with us – we agreed. We’d hardly changed our clothes when he appeared at the guest house! His name is Brandon, he’s 14, attends school in Bamenda because his home is in a remote village and his family feel the city schools offer him a better educational opportunity. He wanted to know how much a ticket costs to America, and he wanted to know how to become a professional football (soccer) player. We told him that ticket costs vary depending on class of seat, time of year, final destination – he wants to visit an aunt who lives in the states. We talked at length about the realities and practicalities, as we understand them, of his goal to play professional football in America. At the conclusion, Brandon knew that he would need to become an outstanding player in order to be found and sponsored financially. He knew that he’d need to be a very good student with a career goal that could support him for his lifetime. He had new ideas about who to approach in Cameroon for help developing his ambitions – his first contact will be his pastor. We were very impressed with this likeable and bright but rather naïve young man, and we wish him success.

--Njoke brought his wife and 11 yo son, Boy, who has Downs Syndrome. Njoke was dressed in African garb – so very handsome! We visited awhile, I gave Aggie the fabric that Njoke had chosen – she will be beautiful in the dress she’ll have made and she’s promised to send a photo. Her dark skin will be lovely with the dark red, navy and pale grey print.

February 19, 2011

2011-02-19T07:03:00.002-07:00

February 19, 2011 – Saturday
--We were up early for breakfast, and lingered with another guest here chatting about nothing in particular. He introduced us to Paddypower.com - an Irish site that offers opportunities to bet on American political candidates’ chances, various details of the upcoming British royal wedding, races of all sorts, and a myriad of other minutia. Today Obama is ahead of all the Republicans, Sarah Palin is not the leading Republican, and Kate will be married in an ivory dress. Place your bets!
--We went to a crafts center this morning to find the final things we want to take home – now Joe has a bag like men in Cameroon carry with a horn cup for drinking palm wine, and he has cola nuts to pass out from his bag should anyone ask for them. A lovely hand carved cross to add to those above the mantle in our living room.
--Then to L.A. King Fabrics to find fabric for a gift for Njoke’s wife – tomorrow afternoon I’ll give her the beautiful piece that he chose for her. Then we stopped for roasted cow meat and beer - both were very good even if we weren’t particularly hungry since we’d had breakfast a couple of hours earlier.
--We’re taking the afternoon off. I’ve started figuring out how to pack all the souvenirs to meet weight requirements and avoid breakage – not a small task! Our drying ;laundry is decorating our room. Joe is happily practicing Barbershopper songs – sitting on the veranda with his headphones, singing to himself, and I’m about to join him with my book. Later we’ll watch the international news – wonder what’s happening in Arizona?
--Our remaining time in Cameroon is short – 5 days, and there are still so many things we haven’t seen and done, and I’ve only just started to help with psychiatry. We’ll return, although in Roumsiki the Crab Sorcerer said I won’t but Joe will think it over and possibly he’ll be back. Hmmm. He’s a very old man and I’m sure he does his best.

February 18, 2011

2011-02-18T06:44:00.001-07:00

February 18, 2011 – Friday
--Rev. Godlove Ndongndeh’s office is a quick walk from the rest house. I was warmly received and visited with the social worker while he finished a counseling session. She’s assured me that it will be possible for me to learn more about the preparation of local dishes, and she really laughed when I said I haven’t yet mustered the courage to try something that to me looks like the contents of a baby diaper although it smells much, much better. We talked about social work needs here – they’re very much the same as I knew when I did social work years ago.
--Rev. Godlove and I talked for an hour about the mental health needs here. There are only 2 psychiatrists in this country and neither is available in this region. Locally the medical doctors are overly burdened and thus they do not diagnose or treat psychiatric illnesses. Here the medical establishment refers those who may have psychiatric needs to Pastoral Care and Counseling for assessment. After they’ve evaluated the patient, a DSM-IV diagnosis is given, the patient is sent back to the medical team and finally medications are prescribed within the limits of the very narrow formulary and their expertise – yikes. It is clear that the same serious psychiatric disorders with their associated problems occur here as are known all over the world, and it is equally clear that the needs are not addressed here and people are suffering.
--The presentation with the medical and nursing staff directors and members of the Pastoral Care Team went very well – lots of questions and discussion, much more than we had time for. I gave them a few hastily prepared protocols based on their formulary and promised to develop more for them ASAP. I’ll also search for avenues to expand the psychotropics in the formulary. They were fascinated with descriptions of telemedicine.
- Rev. Godlove is training a class of Pastoral Care counselors; I stayed to observe and found it very interesting. It was especially gratifying to see how tolerant and accepting they are of individual, theological and cultural differences – the goal is to help all God’s people in ways that that find acceptable and useful.
--Afterward Joe and Mildred, Rev. Godlove’s Administrative Assistant, joined us for delicious supper of well-prepared Cameroonian foods at a nearby restaurant – yum. We made plans to meet again before I leave – I’ll see a few patients, and we’ll go to the large CBCHB hospital to meet with their Medical Director to discuss ways to enhance mental health and psychiatric services. After I leave we will remain in close contact, and Rev. Godlove will send cases to me from time to time for treatment recommendations.

February 17, 2011

2011-02-17T06:44:00.000-07:00

February 17, 2011 – Thursday
--We woke up to watch the sunrise, noted we were back in the rainforest again, and settled back to wait for arrival in Yaounde. Dutifully we gathered our belongings and lo! there was Njoke with his bag – we trudged over the tracks, through the lobby, and there was Npho with the truck. We piled in and headed for Bamenda.
--Over the last few days we decided to change our itinerary. In 2008 I began an e-mail correspondence with Rev. Godlove Ndongndeh who is the Director of Pastoral Care and Counseling Services with the Cameroon Baptist Convention Health Board in Bamenda and surrounding environs. We’d discussed ways that I might help his program and the CBCHB medical staff with psychiatry and psychotropic medications. Then we lost contact, and but one of those wonderful God Things happened – just as we were departing Bamenda 10 days ago, I had e-mail from him! We corresponded hurriedly with the result that we decided to cancel our tour to the southern provinces, and return to Bamenda so that I could meet with him and others to discuss psychiatry services.
--We arrived in Bamenda late afternoon, vibrating, tired and very glad to put our feet on Terra Firma after the past days of riding and riding and riding. I found e-mail from Rev. Godlove inviting me to speak tomorrow afternoon to the directors of the hospital, the nursing program, several from pastoral care, and perhaps others – “Mental Health and Psychotropic Medications.” We planned that I would see him in his office in the morning to review tentative plans for the next few days, and to focus my talk more definitively.

February 16, 2011

2011-02-16T06:43:00.000-07:00

February 16, 2011 – Wednesday
--We went to the Ngaoundere train station early for our tickets – and were told we must buy them the day prior to travel. Rats! We ate in a spot at the train station last night and, based on recent experience, we thought we had to wait till morning so we didn’t try for them then.
--So we sputtered, pondered, and found a representative from the local Tourism Office who took us down a VLBDR to see a beautiful lake with attractive conference center facilities under construction.
--Then he took us to see the palace and chambers of the local traditional leader, ie, the Lamido, whose line is traced to the early 1800s. The Lamido and his 50-odd wives and a few hundred children live in quarters behind the area that permits visitors. Respectfully, we left our shoes on the steps and entered a large darkened, cool room. The tour was very interesting – the buildings have thick adobe walls, high ceilings with beautiful woven thatch design work, and the many niches, nooks and images were all described to us in some detail. We had to pass in front of the Lamido who was resting on a porch – we were taught how to bow and speak to him as we passed, and he greeted us courteously in return. Apparently he thought our bare feet hurt on the sand because he had our shoes brought to us with permission to wear them for the rest of the tour.
--This part of Cameroon is predominantly Muslim.
--Thomas has been our driver since we arrived in Ngaoundere a week ago. Today while we were touring the palace, he received a message that his youngest brother had died unexpectedly after he’d taken a good turn following a long illness – Thomas was stunned. Although he’d expected to wait with us till our train left, we encouraged him to leave us and return to his home in Garoua without delay. We gave him our prayers and good wishes, and a gift to help with his expenses in the coming days, and he drove away. Thomas is a very good and kind person, and a good driver. We wish him well and thank him profusely for his many kindnesses and thoughtfulness.
--Back to the train station in hopes that we could get tickets for tonight. Njoke parked us at the food place and left with a guy “who knows all the tricks.” Half an hour later he was back with 2d class tickets for the 3 of us, and he’d put our names on the cancellation list for 1st class seats. At 4 pm he and the guy-who-knows-all-the-tricks went back to the ticket counter – an hour later, 1 hour before scheduled departure time, they were back smiling. Njoke had a 1st class seat and he’d secured 2 tickets for a sleeper for Joe and me! He’d paid someone to allow my bag of gifts to come into our car vs. the luggage room, and he’d pain the guy-who-knows-all-the-tricks, and he’d pulled off a miracle of gigantic proportions! We drank a “33” to our good fortune, and after Njoke gave us instructions to wait for him on the platform with our luggage in the morning, we got on the train - it left about 6:45 pm. We watched the city disappear into the twilight, ate some freshly picked bananas and stale cookies for supper, and went to bed watching the full mood out the train windows. We loved the train’s swaying movements and slept very well despite stops at every town along the way. At each stop women and children with heavy platters of food on their heads crowd up to the windows calling, “baton, baton! (long steamed sticks of ground manioc),” “l’eau, l’eau, l’eau, l’eau, l’eau (water in bottles),” “annana, annana, annana…(fresh pineapple sticks),” “banan, banan, banan…(fresh picked bananas),” “pastiche, pastiche, pastiche…(steamed seasoned pureed pumpkin seeds wrapped in plantain leaves),” etc., etc. They also sell phone cards, maps of Cameroon, portfolios, African print fabrics, peanuts, on and on, amazing.

February 15, 2011

2011-02-15T06:43:00.003-07:00

February 15, 2011 – Tuesday
--This was supposed to be a slow morning with a plan to leave town late in the morning. I tried out my French over breakfast with a pleasant man who attempted his English with me. He is a government auditor from Yaounde here on assignment with Sodecam headquarters – Sodecam is the national cotton processing company. I told him I’d seen a woman wearing a dress made of an African print that portrayed the Sodecam emblem, cotton plants, cotton balls, and cottonseed oil – he said I could get that fabric at the Sodecam office in Garoua, and then offered to arrange a tour of the plant for us! and in a few minutes we were on our way.
--At the gate we were taken to a driver who expected us and drove us to the headquarters offices, and escorted to the General Manager’s Office where we were greeted most cordially.

The Cotton Fiber Plant Supervisor was our tour guide. He explained all the steps from delivery of truckloads of loose raw cotton to the finished bales. Then we were taken to meet the Cotton Seed Oil Production Manager. Again we were toured through from start to finish. Back to the Manager’s office where we met with several supervisors who answered our questions very thoughtfully. I asked if there was something that we, as ordinary American citizens, can do to support the Cameroon cotton industry. They replied very thoughtfully - we could encourage anything that will support the growers – prices on the world cotton market have fallen so much that the growers are desperately impoverished. Indeed, as we passed through cotton-growing areas, our impression was that they are poverty-stricken.
--Then we visited the Garoua Crafts Market where we were mobbed by clamoring vendors of everything we didn’t want and a few things that we did - I bought some gifts and souvenirs.
--As we were leaving the area I overheard men talking to Njoke about not wanting white people there – this was the only such experience we’ve had and averted it easily. Of much greater concern was a fight that broke out nearby and we left quickly.
--We went to a restaurant for lunch of fish, plantain and rice, with “33.” We had a large private dining room complete with Christmas decorations, to ourselves because we wanted to have beer and thus, we couldn’t be served in the regular dining room.
--We drove and drove on a paved highway with lots of big, deep potholes to Ngaoundere where we spent the night at the Archdiocese rest house – not as nice as in Garoua, but comfortable enough. Supper at the eating place at the train station that we found when we arrived in Ngaoundere on our way north. The proprietress remembered me from the last time there and we chatted about how to make local foods – now I know a little more about ebodje, pastiche, and eru. Mother Superior had promised she’d lock us out if we weren’t back by 9 pm, so we were tucked in our beds with time to spare.

February 14, 2011

2011-02-14T06:42:00.000-07:00

February 14, 2011 - Monday
--Happy Valentine’s Day! We left Roumsiki early, and bought breakfast by the road – little fried pieces of batters of peppered bean flour and sweetened white flour – very good indeed. We held on as we bumped along the VLBDR back to Maroua, and to the Craft Market. We found things for almost everyone at home, and had a great time bargaining. Then to L.A. King hoping to find a piece with the Cameroon cotton industry motif – no luck.
--Lunch was in another behind-the-scenes place where we were directed to our own dining area after we asked for beer – this was a Muslim establishment. We enjoyed good fish, chips and plantain, with by-the-road-purchased sweet potatoes, and of course beer.
--We left Maroua and drove on and on heading south along the paved road with many potholes, through miles and miles of the hauntingly beautiful very arid landscape that is peppered with compounds, baobabs, Joshua tree-like yucca plants, scrubby bushes, dry grasses, rocky fields, rocky low mountains. People here are very, very poor – children were dressed in rags, women looked tired as they trudge along with their heavy loads of water and foodstuffs on their heads, it is the dry season and there is no field work currently – men sit in groups under trees.
--I was startled to see a soldier from the Cameroon Anti-Highway Bandit outfit looking in my window! Njoke explained that he would ride with us for awhile, and he did for several miles. He told us that the government created his unit in response to the many very dangerous highway bandits between northern Cameroon border and Ngaoundere. His detail moves up/down the highway to protect travelers. After hearing that he’d been with soldiers who killed 6 bandits the night before, and who had captured a bandit in Roumsiki while we were there, it was comforting to have this unexpected guest.
--The soldier left us, and we drove on, taking a side trip to Guider. This is another round huts with thatched roofs village, and a nearby nationally protected massive area of exposed granite and marble. It was swarming with those little motorcycles carrying young men and a few young women – “they all come here for Valentine’s Day, they go across (the canyon in the rocks).” We walked out to the edge and marveled at this evidence of ancient volcanic activity, and were mobbed by kids selling bagged water and peeled fresh oranges.
--Very tired, we finally arrived in Garoua about sunset, and were happy to stay again in our same room at the Diocesan rest house. Simple and good supper with the sisters and fathers. And Joe has fixed the computer!
--Its been an amazing Valentine’s Day that I’d do again with Joe in a heartbeat.

February 13, 2011

2011-02-13T06:42:00.000-07:00

February 13, 2011 –
--We were up at 6:15 am to see a lovely sunrise, and then per yesterday’s plans, we stepped onto a steep and winding trail that took us down to valley floor. Along the way our guide told us that the people we met were Nigerians heading for the market in Roumsiki. Today was market day – many Nigerian traders and local people were coming/going on the trail – I admired their stamina and strength as they passed us and continued up the trail at a good clip, carrying their heavy loads including many babies strapped on the women’s backs. Long ago, before anyone can remember, a Nigerian hunter, Roum, came to the largest mountain and decided to make his home there. The mountain was called Roum in his honor. People came to live with Roum, and after awhile the village grew there - Roumsiki, the People of Roum.
--In the valley we stopped to watch wood carvers, and we bargained for calabash bowls that we didn’t buy because the shopkeeper wouldn’t negotiate. We trudged on in the brightening warm sunshine. Ever so slowly we walked on up, up, up the steep trail and around Roum, the huge volcano core. We made our way back to town on the narrow paths between the houses, and stopped to talk about the Palaver Tree where the village leaders hold meetings and resolve disputes. I was slow – it was very, very hot.
--Finally we were back and cooled down on a shady veranda, had a nice brunch and a nap. Inevitably, we had laundry to be done – for probably the only time in my life, I hung my clean clothes on a baobab tree to dry outside our door.
--Late in the afternoon we joined Njoke, Thomas and our guide for a walk through Roumsiki. I was fascinated to see a woman with a handful of raw cotton fibers that she twisted in her fingers and wound it on a large bobbin – finger spinning. I watched her spinning, then we moved on and saw an old man and a boy seated at looms weaving thread like I’d just seen the woman spinning. Inside a thatched shelter there were crafts for sale, and the proprietor explained that the spinners and weavers were a coop. Fabrics they’d made were for sale and I couldn’t resist buying a piece that I think will become a beautiful lightweight jacket.
--We moved on through the village, to see the Crab Sorcerer. This very old man tells fortunes and answers questions. One asks a question and he interprets the crab’s answer. He has a jar of sand with a ring of small sticks just inside the edge. He places a few pieces of broken calabash strategically on the sand, then spits on the crab, talks to it, spits on it again, places the his live river crab on the assemblage, and covers it all with another bowl. He sits back to think and wait for a few moments, then removes the cover. He gives the answer to the question by interpreting the crab’s movements while it was covered. We each paid 1000 CFA ($2.00), asked a question, took pictures, thanked him, he blessed us by touching our feet with pieces of calabash, and we moved on to see more of the village and the market.
--Mobs of people selling things everywhere – aluminum ladles, African print fabrics, soap powder, dried beans, on and on. We sat on a bench under a thatch shelter to sample some locally-brewed millet beer from a calabash bowl – ugh! As it grew dark, we entered a room for our supper. This was a space where several Nigerian traders eat and bed down for the night – it was a fascinating scene. We loved our meal of millet fufu with spicy vegetable sauce and chicken, and of course, beer – yum.
--Back to room we discovered that the computer had crashed – no more internet, no more blog, eeek! Seemed as if bouncing along on the VLBDRs had finally done it in. Darn.

February 12, 2011

2011-02-12T06:41:00.004-07:00

February 12, 2011 – Saturday
--We were up and on the road early. Thomas is a very good driver, careful to avoid the potholes without jerking us around, we felt safe and enjoyed the scenery. We drove a couple of hours, traveling through the very arid region, seeing baobab and other desert trees that don’t grow in Arizona, many more compounds of round adobe houses with thatched roofs, long-horned cows, goats, women carrying things on their heads walking beside the road, lines of school children walking home from school, people resting in the shade of large trees, roadside stands selling everything imaginable.
--In Garoua we stopped at a nice internet café, then turned on a rough dirt road to Roumsiki. This is a quaint village situated on the hillside s amidst large and scenic volcano cores nearby. All along the way saw more and more of the baobab trees and compounds of round and square rooms. Lots of cotton and millet are grown in this area. Roumsiki in the very remote, rugged, and beautiful far northeastern edge of Cameroon – you can see Nigeria across a small valley. We stayed in a buckaroo, ie, at a resort that features round huts with thatched roofs for the guest rooms – we were more than comfortable and loved the gorgeous canyon-edge view. Our room is charming, African prints at windows, beds, table covers, etc. etc. We were more than surprised to find the place has a swimming pool, and the guests included sun-bathing French girls on the cool deck!
--There were lots of people, donkeys, goats, pigs, cows – kids everywhere, too much to see! Two little ones scrambling up a hill yelling at 2 pigs that didn’t want to be caught were very entertaining! A mom noisily chastising her 2 toddlers who’d escaped with a water bucked – she drove them home ahead of her brandishing a switch to hurry them.

February 10, 2011

2011-02-10T05:01:00.000-07:00

February 10, 2011 – Wednesday
--We arrived in Ngaoundere very tired about 8:30 am. This is an arid region and we’re in the middle of the dry season. We passed through clean villages with houses made of adobe bricks and thatched roofs, people were primarily wearing Muslim attire. We got our bags, washed our faces in the very clean train station restrooms, and then we found a clean and inviting place to have breakfast across the commons at the station.
-- Njoke had arranged with his former university professor in Garoua for a vehicle and driver. Thomas is a driver with the University of Cameroon Dept. of Faun & Flore (Wildlife Science). Despite his authorization from the professor and the university to use the university’s truck, in Ngaoundere it was necessary to find a high level official to sanction the paperwork from the University, so we saw some of the city and the paperwork was signed.
--As we drove through and out of Ngaoundere, into the countryside we began seeing round thatched huts and mud brick houses clumped together in tight compounds with woven mat walls, trees here and there, people everywhere, many goats and cows, and it all looked very dry. We drove perhaps 100 km on a tarred road without many potholes.
--Then we turned in on a dirt road to Benoe Nat’l Park. Almost immediately we saw large antelope and waterbuck. As we drove along, we saw duiker, monkeys, many types of birds. We checked into our rooms, i.e., buckaroos – round, spacious, cool, African fabrics, very serene and comfy. We napped gratefully – we were very tired after last night’s train ride.
--We went for a drive thru the park seeing monkeys in the road, more antelope, waterbuck, and birds. We stopped, walked about a mile to the river, and voila! Hippos! Along the bank in small groups as far as we could see. We stood watching them quietly for more than an hour. They seemed oblivious that we were there – they rose and sank, blowing air, sometimes standing high enough that we could see an entire body. The males snorted, seeming to tell each other to keep their distance. We watched fish jumping for flies, saw a crocodile trail out of the river onto the bank and convinced ourselves that we saw its eyes above the river surface. Our guide invited us to return for a better look at the hippos at 6 am, and at the moment this was a definite ‘yes.’
--We trekked back to the compound, showered, supper was simple and delicious rice with meat sauce and crusty bread. Walking back to our room the night sky was bright and clear and we saw the stars which reminded us so much of home. We fell into bed hearing the river and whispering together about the hippos, “we’re in Africa!”

February 8, 2011

2011-02-08T11:15:00.129-07:00

February 8, 2011 – Tuesday
--Njoke was at the train station at 7 am this morning, and purchased our tickets for the night train to Ngaoundere, estimated departure 6 pm with estimated arrival 7:30 am tomorrow morning.

--We spent the morning sight-seeing around Yaounde, sometimes called the City of Seven Hills. Yaounde is the capital city of The Republic of Cameroon. In every sector city we passed governmental office buildings with a significant military presence; it is forbidden to photograph them and the soldiers were convincing, so we didn't.


Downtown Yaounde


President Paul Bia's Palace

We could not help noting the dramatic contrasts between the rich and poor neighborhoods. Yaounde seems to be cleaner than Douala – Douala is a huge industrial city that has grown too much, too fast. In both cities, the poor neighborhoods are far more apparent because they’re not situated in the most desirable areas; the poorest neighborhoods are right along the highways and train tracks, and they sprawl a long way on both sides of the traffic. The poor neighborhoods are dirty, crowded, and seriously congested. On a high bluff over-looking Yaounde, in a luxury housing neighborhood, below we marveled at the large and beautiful homes surrounded by high walls, each with a uniformed guard at the front gate.

Looking Out Over Yaounde toward Bia's Palace

We had lunch again at Les Sorciers, ie, the Sorcerers’ Corner, enjoying crisp roasted pork and cold beer, and people-watching until time to go to the train station.

Our Beer Waitress

Njoke Buying Our Lunch

Mobile Plastics Wares Sales


Taxi Stand

After waiting an hour in a comfortable lobby at the train station, with very clean restrooms, we boarded and waited another hour – we slowly pulled away from the station in the 6:20 pm twilight, heading north.

--Almost immediately Njoke was greeted by Fr. Felix, a Holy Father he’d met at the train station this morning. They’d talked, helped each other with the ticketing process, and Njoke gave Father a ride somewhere. Tonight they found their seats were together! we learned that Fr. Felix has worked in parishes throughout northern Cameroon for the past 30 years and knows everyone. He said the Diocese of Garoua has a large rest house associated with the parish there, and it also runs rest houses in other cities that we’ll visit. Fr. Felix called the sisters and made reservations for us, and he left Njoke with names and phone numbers in case we might need them. His graciousness is consistent with the way we’re received everywhere in Cameroon.

--It was hard to sleep sitting up despite the very generous leg room. The train stopped at about a dozen villages along the way where passengers got on and off, and at every stop hawkers came to the windows and through the aisles selling manioc, bananas, chewing gum, Cameroon maps, phone cards, soft drinks, clothing, pastries, etc., etc. The 2d class section would have been far more chaotic with the vendors and the passengers' loud nonstop music, crying babies, numerous conversations all around, and less leg room. Initially all the windows were wide open but coolness came gradually through the night and people closed them and put on heavy jackets – folks here are acclimated differently - we found the cool breezes most welcome. We were advised not to eat the food prepared in the dining car so we bought soft drinks and snacked on things we had with us. The Toilette was reasonably clean with no toilet seat (a common finding) - it was tricky to balance while the train was swaying along... There was little to see along the way since it was dark outside, but I can tell you what the train stations look like at night along the way! And sunrise was lovely.

February 7, 2011

2011-02-07T08:38:00.189-07:00

February 7, 2011 – Monday
Our trip focus is changing again - we've been in the southwest and the northwest regions, now we're heading for the northern part of the country. We’ve sorted and consolidated our belongings so’s to leave most of it in the hotel security room while we’re in the north; we’ll each live out of 1 small bag because we want to keep our things in direct line of sight on the train. I’m challenged – I want to wear pants in the parks where we’ll be hiking through the forest, and in the very conservative north I should wear dresses and cover my head when we’re in the towns, and I want to buy souvenirs which will have to go in my bag. I'm packing lightly, we'll wash things often to dry overnight in our room. I'm excited!--Early today we visited APE Africa near Yaounde – if a primate must live in a sanctuary, this is the place to be. The enclosures are each many hectares in size, enclosed with high electrified fencing. The enclosure interiors are natural forest where groups of monkeys, gorillas and chimpanzees live in the treetops and the grass. The Alpha gorilla came right to the fence, 3 feet away, to stand and look us over for 10 minutes.

Silverback Alpha Male Gorilla

The chimpanzee nursery was fun – about a dozen youngsters playfully busy in their enclosure; we learned they go for daily forest walks with their keepers so as to learn how to live in the wild again. The area was really loud with bursts of chimp talk. A dozen or more adolescent walked along inside just their fence as we passed, stopping when we did, clearly curious about us and wanting to interact. If you hold a stick and get your scent on it, then push it through the fence, a chimp will take and smell it, add his/her scent and pass it back – they’ll do this all day if you keep the game going. They throw things at you – pebbles, sticks, etc. They hugged and groomed each other, and playfully peeked like human children. There also are Miniature Chimpanzees – found to be more intelligent than their larger chimpanzee cousins.

Npho and Chimp Passing a Stick to Each Other

Chimpanzee thinking, watching, waiting for something to happen?

Animals Watching the Animals Watching the Animals...

Several rare species of monkeys from Cameroon, baboons, drills also live here – all stirringly wonderful. All the animals here were rescued from poachers whose illegal goal was to sell them for stewpots, traditional medicine and the babies as pets. At this center, those that can be rehabilitated will eventually be released back to the wild - their keepers take them out regularly for forest walks to learn how to live independently. Our guide impressed us with his vast knowledge and great love for primates and all of nature.

Very Large Old Tree at APE Africa

--The mission of APE Africa is to extinguish primate poaching. They target education in local schools because reaching the children is the best way to influence their parents’ attitudes, beliefs and behaviors about poaching. Community education about the very real health risks associated with poaching is another very important activity. This project is also an important international primate research destination.

Fresh-Roasted Peanuts for the Trip

Yaounde Railroad Station - In Line to Buy Train Tickets

Midafternoon we went to the train station to get our tickets - but tonight’s train was completely sold out! Nothing to do but stay another night in Yaounde. We went to another spot for Export 33 and supper - we discovered that the intersection is called the Sorcerer's Corner. Again, Njoke had found a place that turned out to be just right – we sat under a shade facing a typically busy intersection. We ordered beer while he went to find roasted pork and accoutrements. He returned, beer and then dinner appeared from different directions. We devoured a platter of pork, spicy sauce and grilled plantain, and then we ordered another platter which also went right down.

Njoke Buying our Lunch

The plan is that Npho will stay in Yaounde with the truck while we’re in the north, and we’ll meet him here when we return. To everyone’s surprise, Npho’s most of all, while he was shopping for his supper from a vendor, his older sister saw him – they’d not seen each other for years! She joined us and Npho happily said he’s already made plans to stay with her and other relatives in Yaounde for the coming week.

Npho and His Long-Lost Sister

February 6, 2011

2011-02-06T04:58:00.584-07:00

February 6, 2011 – Sunday

--Our laundry is all clean again, thanks to the helpful rest house staff. All our belongings were loaded, and we and left Bamenda by 7 am, going generally south for a couple of hours We stopped at a roadside place for breakfast of locally grown spicy black beans and rice, and avocado that we brought with us – I can’t say enough good things about this meal! Back in the truck and on down the road, paved nearly all the way, to Bafoussam and then on a little farther to Foumban to visit a large Fon's palace. Along the way the houses changed from flat or thatched roofs to tall tin pyramids.

Paved Road between Bamenda and Bafoussam

Near Bafoussam - House with Tall Tin Pyramid Roof

The Fon's Palace in Foumba

The palace is a UNESCO Heritage Site; we were not allowed to take pictures inside, but we did tour the palace museum. This huge palace was built by the ruling Fon in 1913. Its 3 stories are constructed of red clay bricks with interior stairs and floors all of hand polished dark wood; the architectural style shows how important the British influence was then. This dynasty's Fons are documented back to the late 1300s, and there are artifacts associated with most of them. Beautiful carvings, feather capes, beaded capes and masks, locally forged and skillful ironwork and statuary. Perhaps we should not have been startled by the very graphic displays of weapons and trophies that depicted the cruelties done in earlier times to enemies – but we were. As we considered a little more, we realized that what we saw here has been done by people to other people the world over – man is really not a peaceful animal.

Stairs leading to the Palace Museum

We had a flat tire leaving Bafoussam, so Joe and I waited with the truck for an hour while Njoke and Npho took it in a push cart to a tire repair shop. We happened to be near a small interurban bus stop, and watched an over-full 9-passenger van add 4 more passengers, and up to the top went 4 goats complaining loudly, 2 very large woven fiber bags of live chickens, 3-4 big heavy stalks of plantains, a few suitcases, and about half a dozen long large heavy bags of goods. Everything was secured with ropes, another passenger climbed in, and off they went – the goats looked very unhappy. An apparently mentally ill man who seemed to be responding to internal stimuli stood across the street; he stared at us, chanted loudly, did something with a piece of metal in his mouth, held his arms outward for a long while, and kept his eyes on us – people walked around him as if he were a signpost. Dozens of the little motorcycles that are used for taxis darted past us within inches, picking up and depositing passengers. A man was steam-washing a large tanker truck a dozen yards away. There was a market 100 yards up the street – people carried everything imaginable on their heads as they streamed by, the traffic was unending.

Where We Waited in Bafoussam for the Tire to be Fixed

Woman Shopping

Taking the Tire to the Tire Repair Shop

Putting the Tire Back on the Truck

--Npho and Njoke returned with the tire, paid the boy who had volunteered the use of his cart, the tire was back on the truck in no time, and off we went, good as new. We drove and drove on a good paved road, heading for Yaounde, and stopped at a "truckstop" for late lunch of hot grilled fish, roasted plantains, spicy sauce and Export 33. The fish and sauce were indescribably delicious to us who typically don't enjoy fish – oh my gosh! Eating with our hands, we savored every last bit, then washed away the last traces in a basin or water. These meals are always amazing – we arrive at a very unlikely looking roadside place, Joe and I find seats on a bench at a wooden plank table, and a waitress appears to wash the table and take our beer order. About the time that the beer arrives, Njoke shows up – he’s been shopping the many food vendors between our eating establishment and on down the road for our food. The waitress brings a basin of cool water which we share in turn, washing our hands there at the table, generally we either share a towel or there is none. Then someone else turns up from one or more of the food stands nearby with platters that we share, or sometimes plates are provided, frequently there is no silverware and we eat with our fingers. The basin is provided again after we've eaten. --Njoke explained why he didn’t choose the roasted meat that looked good as we passed a brazier – “too many flies, it didn’t look good – it was probably cooked 1-2 days ago and the woman couldn’t sell it all so she kept it (unrefrigerated) last night and made to look fresh today by pouring palm oil on it, you have to be very careful.”

Likely a Good Place to Eat

Man doing laundry beside the road in the outskirts of Yaounde

Outskirts of Yaounde

We drove on, holding tight and praying that we'd arrive safely - Cameroon drivers aren't known to be cautious and there are many very serious accidents on this road.

As the twilight and then darkness gathered, we drove into Yaounde – the capital of Cameroon, population about 1 million.

Traffic is heavy: people on foot with loads on their heads, mototaxis, people pushing or pulling carts, yellow taxi cabs, huge trucks, personal vehicles – its loud and congested.

Early Evening in Yaounde

Njoke knew precisely where we were going and took us to the Hotel Azur where we were expected. No elevator – the bellhop carried all our large and heavy bags on his head 2 flights up the stairs. We were very grateful for his help, and he appreciated our tip.

February 5, 2011

2011-02-05T04:58:00.032-07:00

February 5, 2011 – Saturday

--Today started quite pleasantly. We shared breakfast with a rest house guest from Canada - Sam is here in Bamenda for a month as a volunteer community services accountant and business development consultant. We visited with a Cameroonian woman who moved to Virginia 7 years ago – she is here now to bury a sister who died of AIDS. I’m wearing one of my new African dresses today – it feels so-o good.

--We visited Cameroon Alternative Technology (CAT) where we saw and learned about some fascinating demonstration models made from found materials: equipment for solar cooking, water heating, environmentally-friendly outdoor toilets for urban dwellers with no indoor plumbing, recycled vegetation for fertilizer production, etc. I think Joe is ready to convert our house, and say good-bye to the grid!

Center for Appropriate Technology Headquarters

Solar Cooker Made from a Satellite Dish


Solar Cooker, Outdoor Odorless Toilet, Solar Food Dehydrator, Solar Water
Learning About Alternative Energy Products and Projects - Barbara is holding her new "grandchildren"

--In this building I peeked in a doorway with a sign, “Women Income Generating Solution” and lo! a small doll-making project. I talked at length with the director, admired the dolls, and could not resist buying two African children dressed in Cameroonian costumes. I hope to keep contact here and arrange to offer some for sale at the annual Christmas gift sale at Our Saviour. The proceeds are divided in 1/3s among the women who make the dolls, support to sustain the project, supplies for doll-making, and 10% is saved toward program growth and/or emergency loans to the participating women. The director’s passion is AIDS orphans – I’m putting her and Ruth in touch with each other.

Amazing Handmade African Dolls Inside!

--Then we went to Njoke’s office in downtown Bamenda. With his colleague, we talked at length about their work as conservationists in Cameroon and efforts to promote and develop tourism.

Street Entrance to Njoke's Downstairs Office

Njoke at his desk in the Nature Concerns Office

The tourism concept isn’t well understood and does not yet have strong governmental support. The hotel and souvenir industries seem to have a better grasp of the potential benefits for the country from tourism. Nonetheless, word of Cameroon’s beauty and charms is spreading, and increasingly more people want to see and learn more about it. Our tour has an ecological conservation theme, thus our focus to see the natural world and seeing human life and activity is a splendid bonus that ties our impressions together well.

--Remember the chicken that the Fon gave me a few days ago? Njoke’s wife Aggie prepared a magnificent feast for us – fufu, njama-njama, and the chicken. Njoke brought Aggie, his youngest daughter, and his colleague. They, Npho, Joe and I enjoyed this meal – Aggie cooks very well, and we were all full and quite content. We spent an hour talking, and everyone helped to name the dolls.


On the porch at our rest house enjoying the Fon's Chicken, Njama-njama, and fufu with Njoke's Family

Niassa holding Fatima Precious, Barbara, Aggie holding Ali Haj Moosh

February 4, 2011

2011-02-04T12:33:00.314-07:00

February 4, 2011 - Friday
--By the time this day had ended, I was on sensory overload - oh my gosh! what we saw and did! this was an amazing day.
--We left early heading for Babungo to see the Fon’s palace – today’s road is mostly paved with only a short piece of VBDR. There are avocados left from yesterday, and we stopped in Ndop for breakfast of locally grown black beans and rice, spiced with hot sauce and the avocado which all together made magic.
--The Fon’s palace at Babungo was truly interesting. Fon is a hereditary title that is used for the highly revered, respected and influential village and regional traditional leaders/rulers. The Babungo Fon’s lineage has been documented back to the 1400s. All of the Fons in this lineage have been gifted carvers, and over time the people have managed to preserve much of their works which include masks, stools, beds, statuary, and ornamentation on walls, doorways, windows, and posts that support porch roofs, etc.
--We paid 2000 CFA ($4.00) each for admission, and another 5000 CFA ($10.00) for permission to use our cameras. The Fon and his docent were not at home, but a very pregnant wife toured us through the Fon’s Dynasty Museum and then through the outer chambers of the Fon’s Palace – the inner chambers which include sleeping and food preparation areas and are never opened to the public.

Men Preparing for a Dance

Front Entrance to Fon's Palace


Carvings Made by Many Generations of Fons


Photo of the Current Fon

Secret Society House, Behind is the Secret Forest

--My heart sings! we visited a long term residential and outpatient psychiatric treatment center near Babungo – I can’t begin to say how very impressed I am with their philosophy and work. Their treatment philosphy is holistic – traditional medicines are used together with western medications to treat the whole person. Patients have 1:1 attendants 24/7 which assures that they don’t wander away, have unobserved seizures, or other crises necessitating someone to help. The staff are well-trained, mostly kind local people who donate their time. That they really like their patients is obvious – they work, eat, rest and visit together in pairs and small groups. Staff present culturally sensitive education programs with the patients, families and the surrounding communities and schools about the causes, symptoms and treatments for psychiatric illnesses, living with AIDS, AIDS prevention and treatment, environmental and personal sanitation and hygiene, etc.

The Setting of Babungo Integrated Health Center

Walking Toward the Patients' Quarters

--There are only two psychiatrists who live and work in all of Cameroon; one of them makes monthly visits here to consult with patients and assist with staff training.

--This center also provides medical care for the psychiatric patients “because they never have just one thing.” They are developing an outpatient health center to serve the neighboring villages. There is no onsite doctor, the nurses have learned through their years of experience and they are the primary healthcare providers. I gave them the last of the medicaments that I brought to Cameroon.
--The buildings were built using village workers labor and Habitat for Humanity volunteers, and the building materials were bought with loan money which the center struggles to repay. A Dutch psychiatric nurse has been a volunteer here for the past 8 years. A Swiss health aid group helps the center to get pharmaceuticals and medical supplies, but cannot meet the need. The center raises chickens and pigs which they eat and sell, they grow much of their own vegetables and medicinal herbs, they operate some wonderful guest houses, and the residents make and sell handcrafts. All this, and the setting is beautiful.

--Next we drove to a crafts and pottery manufacturing center in Bamessing. It is supported by the Presbyterian Church which facilitates export and international sales to international vendors including Ten Thousand Villages. Ultimately the proceeds go to the potters and craftsmen. The manager took us for a start-to-finish tour. The clay comes from an adjacent site, all hand dug. It is partially dried a few days, then wrapped in plastic and stored underground in a controlled environment till its needed. When needed, the clay is dried completely, then pounded by hand with a big stick of wood to a fine powder, then mixed with water, slacked for a time, and drained. Then it is ready to be shaped. Our guide was very knowledgeable about the soil chemistry and chemical changes that transpire during firing and glazing. With a foot-driven potter’s wheel he demonstrated he is an accomplished potter. Next we pots loading in the wood-fired kiln for firing, last how glaze is applies and fired. Finally we went to the sales room where we were dazzled with the array of pottery and other crafts. It was hard, but we chose 2 mugs which will help to make Peggi and Robert's morning coffee very special.

Pottery Plant Manager Throwing a Pot

Selecting Mugs for Peggi and Robert

--We returned to Bamenda where we were expected at a small Christian-based support center for Cameroonian prison inmates and social re-entry support for released prisoners and their families. Again, we were startled with the welcome. Two gracious older gentlemen dressed in traditional Northern Cameroon garb talked about their 9-year-old program’s work. Then we were introduced to a man who talked about having been incarcerated 3 times for a total 9 years, outside for a total of 5 months during that time. When he met the two older men, he realized he was wasting his life and hurting his 5 children and all his family. He found his faith, completed his sentence, and has not engaged in criminal activity for the past 5 years. For the first time in his life he has recognition – he is the president of this organization that works to salvage prisoners and ex-convicts. Another guest and member of this movement was the Assistant Director of Cameroon Prisons. We talked about our respective US and Cameroon experiences with prisons and prisoners, and we agreed to do what we can to support this group and its work. After grace, we shared a meal of fufu and greens with Export 33. We took advantage of their showroom and bought several things made by prisoners who are learning trades that are expected will help them not to return to prison after their sentences are completed. A delightful unexpected and welcome surprise was seeing Juliette from the Traditional Healers’ Group – she donates traditional medicine to prisoners who are sick, and she was there on an errand.

Traditional Northwest Cameroon Men's Attire

Assistant Director of Cameroon Prisons

Founder of the Prisoners Reform Group

Rehabilitated Former Prisoner


President of Prison Reform Group and Joe - this man made Joe's hat

Founder, Joe, Barbara, President and Reformed Convict, Assistant Prisons Director, Traditional Man

--About suppertime Elizabeth arrived at the rest house with my dresses. House rules here do not allow anyone to come inside who is not a registered guest – we used the visiting area past our building as a dressing and fitting room. It was tricky learning how to tie my new headgear and skirt, but Elizabeth is a patient teacher and I think I’ve got it. I know that I’ll enjoy wearing my new finery.

February 3, 2011

2011-02-03T12:34:00.006-07:00

Thursday – Today we decided not to go for another LBDR ride, and instead to have a day off to rest, catch up laundry, do a little shopping, go to the ATM, and generally catch up to ourselves. The last 4 days of pictures have been downloaded, and we’re looking forward to catching up e-mail, blog, etc.
--Njoke didn’t object at all - he has things he needs to tend to, but late in the morning he arrived with Elizabeth, his family’s seamstress for the past 20 years. She brought dresses with her for examples of styles and some fabrics to stimulate my thinking – she’s a gracious person, and knowledgeable. One of the dresses fit perfectly and I bought it right then. Another took my heart and will be perfect with a small alteration which she’ll do. She left with orders for 2 more which she has promised will be ready by Saturday!
--At 4:30 we drove away with Njoke and Npho to get supper. We went to a roadside place and chose pieces of pork from a large boiling kettle on a bed of coals beside the grill. They went on the grill to crisp and brown. We waited in the bar, listening to American western music and watching a couple of teen girls practice jitterbugging and two-stepping, sometimes with a very cute toddler dressed in an African dress. The meat came off the grill and was wrapped it in the brown paper that covered it on the grill to help smoke it. On down the road to another place selling grilled plantains which we bought off the grill, too hot to handle, and wrapped in similar brown paper. Another stop for a big bag of huge avocados.
--Then to a roadside drinking/socializing place with outdoor tables and chairs facing the fascinating street, Joe sat facing a sign "No urination here" and occasionally a man got up and went out behind the buildings. The beer waitress brought large bowls of water and soap to wash our hands before and after eating. Our meals are all similar - very fun, usually really good, always interesting, and we look forward to each new surprise. The handwashing routine surprised us the first time, but we find it everywhere - it’s a nicety that I'll not forget for a long time. We relished every bite which went right down with cold beer – we want this meal again soon and often.
--Back at the rest house, we shared pictures of our home in Lakeside and our 2009 Cameroon trip with Njoke and Npho.

--Carol, Ruth and Raphael let me know they’re worried because we don’t have a phone to contact them in case we have a problem. We feel we’re very safe in Njoke’s care, and I sent the following to them and his contact information. Please be reassured, everyone.
--“Please reassure Ruth and Raphael that we feel very safe and secure, and we doubt there's any problem phoning them if we should need help. Njoke is committed to doing his part to develop tourism in Cameroon, he doesn't want to disappoint his customers and he does want us to be able to give a stellar account of our tour and his services. We weren't sure what to expect, we hoped for a very African experience, and that's precisely what we're having. We like him - he's bright and pleasant, sticking to the trip plan pretty well, and he's given absolutely no reason for us to question his integrity. He’s very kind.
--“We're learning a few phrases of Pidgin - "My belly no flop" means "I'm full." "Me head no day" means "I'm spacey." "Slow, slow" means "slow down" and "small, small" means "not so much," "only a little." "Thankee" is self-evident. Its really fun to hear. And yesterday at the hilltop military guardhouse above Lake Nyos the guard checked our passports and then wanted antibiotics and/or pain medicine - I gave him 10 Ibuprofen from my backpack and remembered how to instruct him in French because he doesn't speak English! He was very happy to learn he can get more at a pharmacy.
--“We're staying in local hotels that Njoke knows from his vast experiences around Cameroon doing years of environmental conservation and ecology work - none are fancy, all have been clean with minimal niceties but adequate for creature comforts.
--“Our driver Npho is incredible - like Francis seemed to be one with the 2009 bus, Npho is one with the truck and has an uncanny sense of everything going on around us all the time, and he has an uncanny spatial sense. This truck is a 1999 4-passenger diesel 4-wheel drive Toyota. Its really strong, takes the very worst roads without damage, comfortable for passengers, good economy. Npho is quiet, pleasant, very bright, curious, thoughtful, and perfect for his job of driving, carrying luggage, doing laundry, etc., etc., etc. And we think he knows everyone in Cameroon - he's greeted by friends on every corner.
--“Next time we come, we need to explore Sim cards for our phones - Njoke said there's a way to get them to use with our US phones at very little cost. He said we definitely did the right thing not to buy phones when we arrived because there's no need.”

Here's our guide's contact info – for anyone wanting an African experience while touristing in Africa, I can’t imagine there’s anyone more capable or accommodating.
NJOKE TANGWING Christopher, Director
Heritage Tours Cameroon, Inc.
Email: info@heritagetourscameroon.net
Website: www.heritagetourscameroon.net

February 2, 2011

2011-02-02T12:35:00.641-07:00

February 2, 2011 - Wednesday
--We're headquartering in Bamenda for the next 5 days, staying at the Cameroon Baptist Convention-Health Board (CBCHB) rest house. Its very clean and all our creature comforts will be nicely met here. A special bonus is that people stay here from all over the world. We were up and off by 8 am to begin meeting the northwest region of Cameroon, we've read and heard how beautiful and interesting it is.
--We drove north on a segment of the Ring Road which quickly changed to VLBDR. A quick stop in Belo to order a meal for when we return in the afternoon, and we drove away only to discover that we needed petrol for the truck. A stop at a shop brought a man and several jugs of fuel which he poured into the tank, and off we went again.

The Non-Gas Station Fill-up

--We drove over 4 ranges of very tall, steep and rocky hills that are terrace-farmed by the local Fulani people - it has taken centuries to move the millions of rocks and create the hundreds of garden terraces that cover virtually every steep hillside. Long, long ago their forebearers migrated south from the Senegal area of northwest Africa. Here there are fewer and shorter trees, and tall grasses grow on the hillsides. This part of Cameroon is known as the grasslands; this is the region from which the majority of Cameroonian captives were taken and sold to European and US slavers in the 18th and 19th centuries.

The Grasslands of northwest Cameroon

--The visible industries are cattle-raising and subsistence farming. Neat gardens formed in high rows produce various local varieties of yams, coco yams, manioc, corn, and ebodje, etc. This region is differently vegetated than farther west. The villages look like National Geographic photos – houses made of adobe bricks with roofs of grass thatch. The cattle also are from The National Geographic with long horns and humps.

Mud Brick Houses with Thatched Roofs

Community Meeting House

Fulani Cattle - Horns and Humps

Last Year's Garden - Ready to Burn

Burning Last Year's Stubble in Preparation for Planting

--Its the dry season now. The hillsides have lost their rich green and the grass is dry and wheat-colored. The remains of the previous garden are being burned in preparation for the next planting season – plumes of smoke rise up from all the hillsides and valley floors. Bundles of dried grasses and are tied in readiness to re-thatch the roofs.

Dried Grasses Tied, Ready to Rethatching the Roof

People look as if they work very hard – they are weathered, lean and very, very strong. Most of the men wear traditional garb: long flowing tunics over matching pants with a skull cap. Women wear either various African dress styles or western clothing.
--Today is market day, so in the early part of the day we passed streams of primarily women carrying their market goods on their heads, and in the late day we passed streams of men, boys, women, and girls on their way home carrying their purchases on their heads – the loads were large and heavy, and the trek home was very long. They chatted and laughed among themselves and waved as we passed them, calling out "You are welcome!" as we've learned that Cameroonians say readily.

Women Going to Market


Women Carrying Wood Home for Cooking Fires

More VLBDR for another 8 km, and suddenly we were at a federal guard shack with a soldier asking for our passports. Passports were checked, pleasantries exchanged, then we hiked down the hill Lake Nyos.

In 1986 a gas eruption from Lake Nyos sent a huge cloud of CO2 over the valleys in the surrounding area killing 1700 people, their livestock, and all the area’s wildlife and plantlife. Njoke was working here then, and with his task completed he had left 2 days before this disaster! Today the lake is bright green with algae and there is no evidence of other life. It partially flushes itself annually from the heavy rain runoff that causes the water to run over the spillway in torrents down the valley below. A Japanese research institute monitors the water content and quality with instrumentation and periodic sampling. A local man who had hitched a ride with us early in the day was knowledgeable and provided interesting commentary on the depth of the lake, etc. After musing about the impact of the explosion, we hiked back - the guard asked me for antibiotics and/or pain medications. I gave him 10 Ibuprofen tabs from my backpack, taught him how to take it and that he can buy more at any pharmacy, and he was very pleased.

Njoke, Barbara, Joe, Npho at Lake Nyos

--We drove back to Bamenda, holding on as we bumped along, filled with confidence in Npho's skill to get us home safely despite the washouts, detours, big rocks, deep ruts, steep hills, sliding gravel, etc. Supper in Belo was a wonderful treat of Cameroonian style fried chicken, fufu and spicy greens. Npho saved me from embarrassment by having me wash my face before I went inside to eat - it was black with a thick dusting of the volcanic dust. My shower was especially welcome before falling into bed.

February 1, 2011

2011-02-01T13:55:00.469-07:00

Tuesday. More VLBDR including many miles of detours along the under-construction route of the Trans-Africa Highway. We passed through beautiful forest, villages with houses that have been bisected by the new roadway, we waited for dynamiting, and we saw several Chinese workers and heavy equipment with their brand displayed in Chinese characters. This highway project is heavily funded by the Chinese government.

Forest along the new highway

House cut apart by new highway

Chinese worker and Chinese characters on truck

Blasting area ready to shoot!

--Early in the afternoon we arrived at Batibo, a small village west of Bamenda where we met with a group who practice traditional medicine and are supported by NGOs and a Peace Corps volunteer. We passed women working in their garden, and they invited me to join them - to their amusement I tried the Cameroonian-style short-handled hoe with a sharply curved neck, and found it works so well that I may adopt one in my own garden! We toured the herb gardens and met several of the healers in the group. Juliette, a lifelong herbal healer, was our guide through the garden, and later she joined us at the Fon's Palace. Walking through the forest we came on boys collecting household water from a stream, and then a man who climbed a homemade ladder to the top of a palm tree to gather palm wine.

Barbara and Cameroonian women working in the garden

Traditional Healers, Peace Corps Volunteer, herb gardens

Collecting household water

Man gathering palm wine from top of tree

The Fon's Pharmacy

--Then we met with the Fon who is a traditional healer who specializes in stroke management. We became partners in healing when I told him I practice medicine in America. He led me around, holding my hand and telling me about his stroke treatment methods and successes. He explained the herbs he uses, and I saw them applied to paralyzed limbs, etc. I’m not so sure about making cuts on the patient’s body and inserting pieces of herbs to assure that they are in the body to do their work. I don’t know the purpose or the material for the black smudges on the woman who looked like she is in end stage kidney failure – he said she has diabetes and hypertension, and I’m sure she does . He introduced me to his patients, showed me the wards in dark adobe rooms, and talked about patients who are a few months post-stroke and recovering very well in about the same timeframe and apparently with about the same success rate as in the US where our treatments are very, very different.

Hospital bed in ward

Fon demonstrating herbal applications for leg paralysis


Fon Discucssing Diabetic Patient with Barbara

Traditional African Drum used in Healing Ceremonies

--Then we went into the Fon's palace where we were seated and taught how to clap correctly to announce ourselves to the Fon. He entered, gave a welcoming talk, and invited us to take photos with him at his throne. We were served a traditional Cameroonian meal of beans seasoned with dried fish, coco yams, and rice. We drank a tea made from the herb garden and sweetened with local honey - yum.The Fon’s pretty queen offered me water for hand-washing, and served me. Since I was identified as the honored guest, I was instructed to eat first.
--The Fon talked about the significance of this visit between a traditional African healer and a modern American healer, and he urged that we continue working together. We exchanged e-mail addresses. I said how impressed I am with his methods and the parallels that I see between his traditional African healing and my western methods. I told him much I value traditional medicine and that I often incorporate nonpharmaceutical interventions in my care.

Gift of Western Medicinals

After dinner I excused myself, and returned with a bag of antibiotic ointment, antifungal creme, bandaids, topical analgesic, and vitamins as our gift to the Fon, his family, and his healers. They were very interested in learning about the uses of these products - the queen immediately used one of them!

The Fon excused himself and returned with a gift for me - a live chicken in a basket! I was encouraged to take it home to America, but the Fon good-naturedly agreed that the chicken would probably not like the plane ride so I’d better eat it before I leave Cameroon.
--Later Njoke said the chicken was a very important symbol of welcome and approval, he'd never seen this done for a foreign visitor before. The chicken will be dinner soon, and we will remember the Fon very fondly for a very, very long time.

We tied the chicken basket on the back of the truck, on top of all the luggage, and drove away into the darkness toward Bamenda where we'll headquarter for the next 5 days.

January 31, 2011

2011-01-31T13:26:00.175-07:00

Monday. This morning we left Mundemba at 5:30 am, driving another LBDR.

Along the way we saw more of the rainforest and palm tree plantations, and we stopped at a couple of independent palm oil processing plants because Njoke wanted to take some home to his wife for cooking. This looks like the hardest, hottest, dirtiest work in the world!

Independent Palm Oil Processing Plant

At Lobe we stopped for a guided tour by Njoke's former classmate, the Engineering Manager of Palmol, the national palm oil processing plant. This plant began operations in 1961 and the first signature in the guest register is the then president of Cameroon. Virtually all the original equipment is still in use, and they have new steam-driven Caterpillar turbines – the steam is generated by a hand-stoked oven. The plant takes pride in being environmentally friendly – they use all the palm waste materials to fuel their processing systems.

Conveyor Carries Palm Nuts to Steamer


Palm Nuts in Steam Cooker Ready for Processing

Grinder Reduces Palm Nuts to Oily Pulp

Steam-Driven Caterpillar Engines

Hand-stoked boiler drives steam engines

--More LBDR to Kumba, a day ahead of schedule. In Kumba Njoke called Dominic, the solar oven project director, and to everyone's surprise he was one block away from us in Kumba! WEH is exploring the possibility of developing a solar bakery as a source of employment and income for WEH women. Dominic rode to Nguti with us (VLBDR) and answered all the questions that I could think of, and kindly offered details that I hadn't considered. He referred me to Kay-Kay, a Peace Corps volunteer working with the Nguti Solar Project, for more about the business and production details.
--As soon as we arrived in Nguti we went to several officials' offices for formal introductions. Then at Dominic’s request, we drove several km down a truly horrible road to see an abandoned wildlife research station where Dominic had worked for 7 years with a World Wildlife Fund project. It was too buggy to explore the vicinity, so we turned down the invitation to hike 45 minutes each way to a lovely waterfall and lake that is a fertile bird-watching destination. After making our way back to town, we were sent to a bar for beer and peanuts. Before we'd finished, we were directed to follow Dominic behind the bar to the home of the Lord High Mayor of Nguti and Seventeen Villages for formal introductions, visiting and a good meal (boiled plantains, beans seasoned with dried fish, boiled coco yams, and a nice wine.
--Finally we went to see the oven! It’s a large critter on its own trailer so that it can be taken outside to the sunshine for baking. It has 5 large mirrors on top that open up to collect the heat. It can hold a dozen loaves that bake in about 30-45 minutes depending on the day. The vegetation is more dense in Nguti than in the Mangamba area, but it sounds as if the sunshine is about the same. They estimate they'll use solar energy for baking about 7 months of the year. The villagers like the solar oven baked goods very well and they are affordable - its enjoying a good beginning. The project has German, Swiss and World Wildlife Fund support which they've obtained by approaching the donors from a environmental conservation perspective. Dominic offered their business plan to share with WEH, and I exchanged business cards with Kay-Kay. We look forward to more discussion, and hopefully a return trip.

His Excellency the Lord High Mayor of Nguti and Seventeen Villages, and Barbara

The solar oven on its trailer in its garage, and admirerers

--Njoke felt we should push on, so we drove through the darkness on more VLBDR to a wonderful bed and shower in Mamfe.

January 30, 2011

2011-01-30T13:09:00.001-07:00

January 30, 2011
Sunday. This morning we drove a very long bumpy dusty road (VLBDR) to Mundemba. Along the way we passed massive rubber, cocoa, and palm oil tree plantations, and we stopped at a spring for cool fresh water. There were fascinating geologic formations in this formerly volcanically active region. Kids were busily rolling tires along the roadway as we passed.

Very Long Bumpy Dirt Road (VLBDR)

Kids rolling tires

Immature cocoa pods

Tapping Rubber Trees

Rubber Tree Plantation

Geologic Formation - many of these!

In Mundemba the Korup National Park manager very graciously opened the office in the middle of his Sunday afternoon to give us permits, and went with us as our guide. The 250 meter swinging bridge made of woven vines has been replaced with a swinging bridge of cables and boards that are unevenly spaced and far enough apart to see the rushing water and rocks far below and make you hang on to the hand cables for dear life!

Mana Suspension Bridge - Entrance to Korup National Park

Korup Park Manager, Me, Njoke - along the path in Korup National Park

Path in the Park

--This tropical forest is in pristine condition, never cut, and protected for the past 50 years. It is the site of worldwide research that benefits our world – medications, animals and their behaviors, insects, weather, the myriad of forest plants, flowers, hundreds of bird species. We sprayed our insect repellant liberally, and into the forest. As we walked the narrow path under the dense canopy we heard bird calls and our guide said the monkeys were feeding in the treetops, getting ready for their night. At the Limbe primate sanctuary we saw chimpanzees, gorillas, drills, baboons, and several types of monkeys whose native home is here in Korup National Park. It was humbling to be here, it is so beautiful.
----Back to town for supper of bush meat (crocodile?), boiled plantain and beer at a local spot and stimulating conversation with the park manager about forest fire control. Our gracious guide told me that I’d made him crazy during our walk. I asked if it was because I’d picked up the litter I found along the path – that was it, “I didn’t know how to respond, no one does that here and I didn’t know what you were thinking, maybe that our park is dirty and you didn’t like it?” I explained that I was doing what I do at home, that in the US there are effective campaigns for each and all of us to keep our natural places clean, and my small gift to this park’s beauty was to carry out the small amount of trash that I saw. He was very interested in hearing about strategies to motivate people to pick up their park and their town, and I described our Adopt-a-Highway program. I suggested that in Mundemba he might approach the Presbyterian Church, the Apostolic Church, the Secondary School, etc., asking each group to adopt a 2 km stretch, and post a sign indicating whose stretch is which. He loved it! I hope this is the footprint that I left in Mundemba – I’d love to know how his efforts fare.

Dinner Spot

--To bed early under the mosquito net – tonight I’m very thankful for it – this is a buggy place.

Our room had everything we needed

January 29, 2011

2011-01-29T08:06:00.124-07:00

--After breakfast we picked up Remy and drove to the village to see the first day of the 2-day Elephant Dance. Edward took Joe's camera, wrapped a length of African print fabric around his hips forming a long skirt, and joined the group of dancers.
--My understanding is that this dance is done annually during the dry season to enhance fertility in the coming growing season, and to pass the tradition on to younger man in order to perpetuate their culture. Seventeen villages from around Mt. Cameroon participate. One village at a time, costumed men arrive outside the host village and come in carrying an Elephant Bundle and trying to avoid the host village's efforts to drive them away. They must pass certain tests of endurance and bravery before they can join the growing group of men dancing around the two men who represent elephants in a wallow. Running barefood on the rocky road, another test is to eat live coals, another is to eat raw coco yams which are poisonous, and of course they must not drop out from exhaustion. The "elephants" , ie, men who have been singled out for this honor, stay in the wallow all night long while the groups of men sing and dance. On the second day, when all 17 villages have arrived, the Elephant Bundles are opened and the most honored men from each village dress in elephant costumes and dance the Elephant Dance. It is said that sometimes the dancers turn into elephants and are never seen again because they disappear into the forest.

A village arriving

One of the lead arrivals

Dancers arriving

Bringing Fire

Maintaining the Fire

Dancers arriving at the Elephant Wallow with an Elephant Bundle

Singer with an instrument

Dancer with Amulets

Elephant Wallow

--We left earlier than we'd have liked. --Edward came to Njoke saying that some of the dancers were demanding money in order to continue filming. We agreed that seemed best to leave rather than to pay, and pretty soon have to pay again, and again,...
--In Buea we stayed at a Presbyterian Rest House that has a free kitchen - this means that we have the use of the kitchen to prepare things that we've bought in town. We were delighted with the flowering poinsettia trees just outside.

Poinsettia Tree

Our Toyota Chariot in front of the Guest House

Shopping for groceries in Buea

January 28, 2011

2011-01-28T08:06:00.138-07:00

--Friday. After breakfast we drove to Buea, an old city of 60,000 residents who live in the city and many surrounding villages on the slopes of 13,000’ Mt. Cameroon.

Former capital of Cameroon from German occupation

Njoke, Barbara, Remy above Buea

Buea behind a budding tree

Flower gardens fluorish in Buea

--In downtown Buea across from the large old city market building, the Lifafa Travel Agency is operated by Njoke’s tourism mentor and friend, Remy.
--He joined us – 5 in the Toyota pick-up, and we drove on bumpy unpaved roads to see hundreds and hundreds of acres of the Tole Tea Plantation. The workers have deplorable living and working conditions – minimal pay, miserable housing, no company benefits of any sort, grindingly hard manual labor. The women we saw along the way appeared as if their lives are unspeakably hard.

Tole Tea Plantation - Women harvesting tea

Tea Workers


					Tea Workers' Housing

--Over palm wine in one of the villages, Remy discovered that tomorrow they would start dancing the Elephant Dance, so we decided to change our plans and stay on to see it. Remy arranged with Edward, who would be dancing, to hold our camera and photograph the dancers up close.

Palm wine break - Njoke, Barbara, Joe


Joe, Remy, Edward (tomorrow's photographer)

Woman selling fresh roasted corn on the cob

--On the way back to town we needed a snack. We bought freshly roasted corn on the cob from a lady who was cooking and selling it at the edge of the street. No butter or seasonings, but it was nutty and sweet, yum!

Much later we had lunch/supper at a “Spot” where we had Pepper Soup (bushmeat – antelope? with boiled plantain chunks in a peppery broth) and “Export 33.” We enjoyed it, but wouldn’t order it as often as we go to Sonic!

Pepper Soup and Export 33

--We drove then to another “Spot” in town for more “Export 33” and talk in the twilight, then to the hotel for the night.

January 27, 2011

2011-01-27T07:43:00.020-07:00

January 27, 2011
--Thursday. English breakfast on the patio, then we drove to the Limbe Zoological Park. I’ve seen documentaries about wild animal rescue and rehabilitation programs – this is a primate rescue center for about 200 gorillas, chimpanzees, drills, baboons, and several monkey species from Cameroon. Every animal’s photo and story are posted – babies who were orphaned when their parents were killed by poachers, adults who were injured by poachers who couldn’t/didn't sell the damaged goods, animals kept as pets in horrible living conditions, etc. They live in large, well-kept areas much like the best American zoos, and a veterinarian is in residence. Their keepers were all helpful with our questions. We will wear our souvenir t-shirts proudly. This poster, in Pidgin, speaks to the consequences of poaching.

Plenty animals them for LWC na orphans them. Hunter people be kill their mami and papa them and sell the pickin them for people for play witham.

Taking it easy

Just sitting

--Then we drove along the coastline to Idenau, a fishing village almost at the Nigeria border. No photos were permitted at the bridge, but we were free to take them on the other side. The village is long and about 2 houses deep, right on the beach. The houses are constructed of bamboo poles and whatever else can be found, people everywhere, a few thin dogs, and lots of small children. Little booths selling roasted fish from the catch brought in this morning, corn on the cob, and other things I didn’t recognize. A fishing net was spread along the shore between the houses and the waterline – about 20 feet wide and ¼ mile long, doubled in half over itself. We sat down to watch and a man came along and started talking and explaining in Pidgin with Njoke and Npho how their fishing is done. Pidgin, we were beginning to learn, is the lingua franca in most of Cameroon. We understood quite a bit, and Njoke interpreted to keep us included. Npho and the man disappeared and returned with home-brewed gin from the man’s native home in Benin – we drank shots that were much like white-lightning. Eventually we started back toward the bridge, marveled at the dozens of dugout canoes as we crossed, and went to a noisy river-edge bar for delicious roasted fresh fish, whirls of manioc paste with palm oil, and fried plantain – all with lots of very hot chile paste and lots of very cold “33” beer - We took pictures, talked, marveled – oh my gosh!

Npho, Njoke, Barbara

Fisherman (note gin and grin), Npho, Njoke

Fisherman, Njoke, Barbara, Joe, Fisherman - with gin

Fishnet drying on the beach

Our restaurant

Freshly caught grilled fish, manioc whirls, hot sauce, cold "33"

--Everywhere in Cameroon people are friendly, polite, kind and very helpful. If this country were to package their best product for export, this would be it – we’ve never been welcomed so warmly and consistently as here.

--Back to Limbe, we rested and showered, then had chips and beer on a seaside patio, and turned in.

Njoke - Barbara

January 26, 2011

2011-01-26T07:30:00.002-07:00

January 26, 2011

Wednesday.
--We said good bye, and then followed the students’ bus till it turned off to Mangamba. They’re going back to clean the house and gather mousquitaires and leftover medical supplies which they’ll distribute to Mbanga hospital, Kotto Up school, other places and people, follow-up Michael’s surgery and discharge plans. Tomorrow morning they’ll leave Mangamba forever, visit a leprosarium in Douala, and shop for fabric and curios in the afternoon. Friday they’ll write their final paper and leave a copy for Ruth to submit to the Department of Health, and they’ll fly to Paris that night for a long weekend and then home to Portland.

--We loaded our luggage and got in the 4-passenger, 4-wheel drive Toyota truck with Njoke and Npho and drove away, heading for Limbe where we’ll stay for two nights and visit the surrounding sights.
--We crossed the ---------- River Bridge, the boundary between former French and British protectorates that caused today’s Francophone and Anglophone Cameroon. In 1961 France granted Francophone Cameroon independence, but Britain’s position was that their region was not yet developed enough to govern independently; they required Anglophone Cameroon to join Francophone Cameroon under one government, the Republic of Cameroon. As in the American South, tensions between the groups are unresolved and occasionally there are serious uprisings. Five years ago this bridge was blown up; it was replaced and facilitates nonstop heavy commerce.
--The river banks and bottom under this bridge are very sandy, a material needed for construction. The banks are lined with dugout canoes filled with loads of sand that workers got by paddling out, diving to the bottom to collect a bucket of sand, swimming up to the canoe to dump the bucket, diving back for more sand. When the load in the canoe lowers the sides just above water level, the worker paddles to shore where another man waits to shovel the sand out. The banks are steep, so another worker shovels the load up a few feet, then another worker moves the load up another level, until it is on the high ground where a waiting dump truck is filled and then hauls it away to a construction site in Douala or elsewhere. This seemed like a don’t-miss photo opportunity.
--We stopped, walked down the beach, watched, talked with a worker, took a lot of pictures. A man appeared, gesturing angrily. Another man came, we were the center of a gang of angry men, yelling at us. Njoke handled this well. We were escorted to a guard shack where a man in military uniform told us this has happened to other visitors - this area is not posted that photos are forbidden - we’d have to surrender the cameras. They agreed to watch Njoke and Joe delete the photos of the sand divers. The uniformed man’s superior arrived and wasn’t satisfied. We showed our passports and talked about why we’re in Cameroon. Njoke sent us to wait at the truck. After 10 minutes he returned, poorer by quite a bit.
--We drove on to the town of Tiko, then turned down a dusty bumpy road through miles of banana plantation that is owned by the Cameroon Development Corporation and leased to Del Monte Foods until we entered the headquarters clearing where Njoke had arranged that we’d meet the plant manager and have a tour of the plantation. We waited and waited, a message arrived via Njoke’s son-in-law who works there that the plant manager apologized for a conflict and he couldn’t meet with us. The son-in-law answered a lot of questions and told things we didn’t think to ask. It was fascinating to see hundreds of stalks of bananas that had been cut from their respective trees in the orchard and hung on a trolley that delivers them to a shed where a protective blue plastic bag is removed, the bananas are inspected and washed, and sent on to a packing shed to be boxed for shipment to foreign countries.

--Back on the road it wasn’t long till we were in Limbe. We were here two years ago but until today we had little concept of the size of this old city – certainly not a sleepy little town, and Njoke knows his way around well. Alfred Saker, a German Presbyterian missionary, arrived in 1885. His work was accepted well – today the Presbyterian church is firmly established and very influential in Cameroon. Less savory, in the 18th and 19th centuries this natural port was the site of very active slaving and ivory export trade.
--We spent a few hours touring the Limbe Botanical Gardens – created in the late 1800s by the German occupants, it has survived political and governmental ups and downs – today it is renowned for tropical plant research and the beautiful grounds. Predictably, Joe enjoyed examining and identifying many of the trees and plants. It is serene here, and we took good advantage of the unhurried experience, savoring the peace and beauty.

--We then walked over a knoll to a seaside restaurant where we had a late lunch/early supper of rice with red sauce, fried plantains, and fried chicken, and of course we washed it all down with good beer. We sat and visited until twilight, then to the hotel.

--This off shore oil rig was installed sometime in the last 2 years. Like neighboring Nigeria, Cameroon has off shore oil and is beginning to develop this industry.

January 25, 2011

2011-01-25T07:29:00.001-07:00

January 25, 2011
Tuesday. Still no power, water – the whole group bussed to Njombe for breakfast, then we spent the day doing the last health education and health assessments in a very hot, crowded and noisy classroom at Njombe school. We all were tired - its been an amazing time, and there's so much to ponder and digest. We've seen more hardship here than any of the other places we've been.

House with gravesite.

Young crippled woman crawls and protects her hands with flip-flops.

--One of the Njombe WEH kids has captured everyone's heart. He is 15, post-polio, dirt poor, very bright and positive. Two years ago the students helped him with a physical examination and new crutches. Now he's a lot taller and his crutches needed adjustments. The bolts had rusted tight, so a student and Joe went with him to a welding shop to loosen it and adjust the height correctly.
-- Isabel was there today and surprised me with her good English-speaking ability – she’s been keeping a secret! I’ll stay in touch with her and Kassafro, and do what I can.

--Back to the Luxor Hotel for a shower!, cold beer on the porch with David and Joe – and then Njoke arrived with our driver, Npho! Today marks the end of our journey with Linfield, and the beginning of our 4-week tour of Cameroon. We’ll leave early tomorrow morning to start our month long tour of Cameroon.

January 24, 2011

2011-01-24T07:25:00.004-07:00

January 24, 2011
--Power is still off, everyone is hot, uncomfortable, wants a bath, and without refrigeration our meals are uninviting and repetitious. I can’t find my camera – I wonder if I left it in the SUV on Friday afternoon? At the Titis? At any of the 3 department stores we went to for a razor for Joe? Or?

--Penja. Isabel became my heroine when I learned about her 3 years ago. Despite her own serious health issues, she has acquired the resources to operate a home for throwaway people with AIDS in her community, Penja. She somehow does a lot with very little - there is never enough for everyone’s needs. Nonetheless, she is kindly strong and very determined.
--Most of the children living at Kassafro are WEH kids. We did our health assessments here today – 4 stations in a small room packed with people, and a hoard outside pressing loudly to get in next. We gave out vitamins and intestinal worm medications liberally, lots of paracetamol (Tylenol), cough medicines, and occasionally antibiotics. I had some time to meet with Isabel and talk about her work and the support group that I lead at home for people living with HIV/AIDS. She needs money for her own labs in order to continue to be eligible for her medications.

--We made a quick stop at the Luxor Hotel in Njombe to make our reservations for us and Njoke tomorrow night. Then back to Mangamba where the power is still off. We’ve packed and we’re ready to take all our belongings with us tomorrow morning.

January 23, 2011

2011-01-23T07:23:00.003-07:00

January 23, 2011
Sunday – Sam has been increasingly excited – he was invited to preach at the Titi’s church this Sunday, so he’s been preparing his sermon and worrying how he’ll be received. Sam’s sermon was incredibly well-received, and he’s relaxing now, happy and relieved.

Schedule of Sunday services - traditional Douala at 9 am, French at 10:30 am

Rev. "Papa" Sam Hosler

Ruth and Raphael at church

Ruth and her sister Doris

--After church we sat down to a lovely dinner; the guest list was heavy with clergy – Carol, Sam, and 3 pastors from the Iglese Evangelique du Cameroon. The afternoon flew by – suddenly it was late afternoon and we’d had a 5-course meal and lively discussions. Linfield students began to appear – they were here for supper. The table was cleared and reset, Ruth’s amazing kitchen staff put another meal on, and served them.
--We tried again several times, unsuccessfully, to phone Njoke. Hopefully he’s received the e-mail that I sent Friday evening saying to find us Tuesday evening at the Luxor Hotel in Njombe.
--We joined Linfield on the bus and headed out of town after a stop for ice cream at Goody's. The pastry side of this shop is like a French bakery, and the ice cream side served Italian gelato! Joe was beside himself when he found they had a soft serve ice cream machine. Just a couple of blocks from the Titis’, this is a hopping upscale place to meet and be seen. Back on the bus hawkers tried to sell models of the Eiffel Tower!
--Reportedly, Friday night’s debriefing was long and very, very productive. They’d learned that none of the patients they sent for testing had been tested. The woman complaining of flank pain had negative results for her tests that cost nearly $80 and she was released with instructions to continue the medications that we’d given her, and later that day students saw her walking very normally through markets doing her shopping; they felt she had “taken” them so she could get a ride to town. Their agreement is that for the remainder of the trip, when any students wants someone seen at the hospital they will seek evaluation from their faculty or me to confirm the findings and plan. Only then will a patient be given information and promise for assistance. The student who told me about the debriefing said, “we’re all wiser now, this was a hard lesson that we needed.”
--Just after Dibombari we realized there were no lights in any homes or businesses, and we only saw lantern lights along the way all the way back to Mangamba where there was no electricity or water and the town water pump outside our gate wasn’t working. The house, closed up tight for the weekend, was very, very hot for those who opted to sleep indoors.

January 22, 2011

2011-01-22T07:22:00.004-07:00

January 22, 2011
Saturday. Late in the morning Carol, Sam, Ruth, Raphael left for Limbe. We stayed behind to read, relax, get some laundry done, hopefully meet the seamstress to have our measurements taken and choose styles for dresses and shirts, to catch up with the blog, e-mail and the church website.
--We tried to call Njoke – a message repeatedly said the number is not in service – YIKES! But its not time to panic yet.

January 21, 2011

2011-01-21T07:21:00.043-07:00

January 21, 2011
--Friday. Still no power, water, phones. Frustrating start for the day that culminated with an invaluable learning experience.
--Due to misunderstandings, miscommunications, and poor coordination yesterday, several people were told to come here this morning for a ride to Mbanga hospital to have filiaria (parasites) and malaria testing and treatment, and also for HIV/AIDS testing. The flank pain woman presented herself saying she was “a little better” but wanted to go to the hospital - I re-examined her and told her to go home to give her meds time to work, but I was over-ruled by students who wanted to hospitalize her because they’d have a terrible weekend worrying that if she’d worsened, they wouldn’t be available to help her. Because there wasn’t enough room for everyone in the vehicle that was going to Mbanga Hospital, the students were asked to prioritize which patients should travel today and which should be postponed. They couldn’t come to agreement, so today’s assignments and schedule were rearranged necessitating more travel time and significantly delayed arrival at our primary destination. All the patients, students, WEH staff, and supplies were loaded on the bus the other SUV, and we delivered the patients to a junction where they were all given money for taxis, a meal, and their estimated medical expenses - they were to take taxis north to the hospital and then home to Mangamba, and we turned south for our rendezvous with Bekoko Primary School.
--Bekoko Primary School is small and rural. The children are active and bright, and their teachers are committed to the educating them well. I was charmed with variety of braiding styles among the girls' hairdos.

--Half the school was crowded into one classroom for the First Aid and Malaria presentations. One teacher had a big stick that she pointed at children when she called on them. From their responses, we suspect she used it to correct them, too. The groups rotated and the presentations were repeated. One of the WEH volunteers, Danielle, is the daughter of the village chief. The chief and the senior chief were there to observe and to welcome us.
--During the 2009 visit I had seen one of the WEH orphans, 14 yo Michael, and examined his tender and enlarged scrotum. At that time he was not given priority, so medical attention was not funded. Today I invited one of the students to examine him with my supervision – we found he was still tender and enlarged, with what we presumed was an egg-sized hernia. Arrangements were made for him to be evaluated at Mbanga Hospital on Monday, and the students will pay for his care and probable surgery. We’ve learned that hernia repairs cost about $200.
--We did health assessments with all the WEH children and several others.

--Despite the chaos this morning resulting from poor collaboration, after finding that we did not have the means to transport a mother and child for hospital evaluation, a student privately gave money to them because she felt that her assessment overruled others’ and indicated a medical emergency. This decision was not discovered by the group until the debriefing.
--After finishing at Bekoko School, Joe and I rode to Douala in the SUV, and the Linfield crew returned to Mangamba for the night and then to Limbe for the weekend. Its good to be in town again, to see Ruth and Raphael, Carol and Sam, and to catch up with the CNN news. We walked to the internet café to catch up with e-mail, and to finalize our plans to meet Njoke on Tuesday.

January 20, 2011

2011-01-20T07:20:00.007-07:00

January 20, 2011
--Today’s starting plan was to spend the morning here at the house doing health assessments and treating Mangamba’s adults, old folks and preschoolers, and for the afternoon we'd go 7 km up the road to another village school. We didn’t make it to the school because the logistics became too complicated – lunch arrived at 3 pm, delayed due to a fender bender in Douala, etc., etc. We spent the whole day here and were busy with patients, without a break. It was another very hot and humid day.
--We were ready shortly after 9 am starting time – dozens of people were eagerly waiting to be seen for their myriad concerns, especially malaria symptoms. The oldest ones had arthritic aches and pains from their lives of daily hard manual labor, age- and lifestyle-related vision problems, and chronic stomach upsets. The young children presented with fever, runny noses, cough, nausea, vomiting and diarrhea. A triage and vitals station was set up down stairs, and upstairs we did assessments and treatments - this worked well because here we were next to our pharmacy and supplies.

--A young man, Coco, had a seriously infected hand from a work accident with his machete – we dressed the wound, gave antibiotics, and arranged for him to return tomorrow for a recheck.
--We were concerned because last week’s 15 year old boy with the abscess on his hip did not come today. A middle-aged woman complained of severe flank and one-sided pelvic pain, and decreased urination with blood - she was given antibiotics and education about her care and sent home with plans that we’d follow her outpatient, but a few students feared she’d worsen and really wanted to hospitalize her – transportation was not available so she did go home and we’ll see her in the morning.

--Our meals have been and continue to be interesting and somewhat problematic. Ruth is doing her best to assure that none of us get sick, so all our food is prepared by her chef in Douala and driven to us, usually twice daily and sometimes 3 times. The cost of gas is horrendous, and its been difficult to deliver the meals on anything like a reasonable schedule. We’re really enjoying the French-influenced African foods, French cuisine, and some American foods, too. We do appreciate the efforts and the good flavors. Lots of fresh tropical fruits – papayas, bananas, pineapples especially – we’ll never tire of any, they are so-o good.
--Joe and I will not miss our foam mattress because it absorbs body heat, making it hot to lie on it. But we will miss the coziness and romance of sleeping under the mosquito net – its filmy and pretty, and we feel very close when we’re tucked inside, just us and our magnificent adventure.

January 19, 2011

2011-01-19T05:20:00.005-07:00

January 19, 2011
--Wednesday. Time is flying too fast! In 6 days we’ll say goodbye to our wonderful friends from Linfield College. On January 26 they’ll conclude their teaching and clinics, write their summary report, return home to Portland, and graduate from Nursing School in May. On the 25th Joe and I will separate from them, meet Njoke Christopher Tangwing, our guide from Nature Concerns-Heritage Tours Cameroon, and begin our adventure visiting much of Cameroon in the following 4 weeks.
--Another slow and serenely pleasant morning with coffee and breakfast on the porch. Today all but one of the students are hale and hearty, the first group have left for Souza Hospital, the second group left on time for St. Herbert’s School in Souza to do health education classes and health assessments of all the WEH children who attend this school. Other children who are referred by the teachers will also be assessed – these children have some of the most significant problems, and sadly there’s little we can do for them.
--Joe and I are home again today keeping the “infirmary” – she’s doing well, likely she’ll be back on her feet by tomorrow. It’s a welcome opportunity to catch up the blog, and I’m frustrated that I can’t post any pictures – the photo program isn’t cooperating at all. I posted some into the test in Word and tried cutting and pasting text and photos, but the photos stayed behind. I’ll keep trying – we want to share them.
--Everyone has K.P responsibilities - we're divided by health education group and the "old folks." I'm regularly comforted by everyone's willingness to help keep dishes done, meals served, and in general keep our home habitable.

--Tonight’s debriefing was quick – everyone was really tired. The HIV/AIDS education group presented to a group of about 75 adolescent boys whose teachers were not present. Afterward, the conclusion was that groups of adolescent boys are the same world over - feeding off each other, they are loud, disruptive and unmanageable. The Malaria and First Aid groups were frustrated because they, too, had been given too many unsupervised children and it wasn’t possible do the presentations effectively. Similarly, the Menstruation group felt their message did not reach the adolescent girls because boys were hanging in the classroom windows, calling to them and embarrassing the girls who thus weren’t able to listen and learn. Only WEH children from St. Herbert’s were to be assessed – this is a large school with a few dozen WEH kids, several others also were presented by their teachers and/or crowded in. Although he encouraged the HIV/AIDS education, the priest then told the boys that condoms cause AIDS. Our amazing interpreter Saunders, a health educator specializing in HIV/AIDS prevention, spoke up immediately for abstinence and rescued the day.

January 18, 2011

2011-01-18T05:14:00.005-07:00

January 18, 2011
--Tuesday. We’re still on fluid time – today we were to leave at noon for a 90-minute bus ride to Dibombari for an afternoon doing assessments and health ed classes at the lycee (high school). David woke us up at 9 am saying the phone is back in service (the network has been down for the past week so we’ve not been able to communicate with the outside world from our home base) and we’re leaving at 10:30 at the school’s request. Just then one of our folk said we have several who are down sick – more phone calls, more plan changes. The bus was to leave at 11:30 for Dibombari –at 11:15 Elias (bus driver) discovered a flat tire, so the bus left at noon. Joe and I have stayed at home to tend the infirmary --------
--Thankfully, this morning’s brief power outage is over, and the AC and water are on again. Joe did our laundry. The girls are sleeping. Francois’ rooster has gone away, maybe in search of a lady friend? we hear a rooster in the distance – hmmm. Hundreds of birds are chirping in the nearby guava trees, sometimes there’s a gong that in actuality is probably the breeze blowing the tin on someone’s roof nearby. Its hot on our shady porch, and sublimely peaceful.
--Tonight’s debriefing included report about the little boy we sent to the hospital last Thursday. His mother had brought him to us in her arms saying the past few days he’d had fever and diarrhea, was throwing up, and was getting worse. While we waited for the ride to the hospital to be arranged, we offered some Pedialyte which came right back up. When he arrived at Mbanga hospital he was immediately admitted. Last Thursday it wasn’t possible for us to have one of our group stay with mom and the little guy, they were dropped off and we expected to follow up at the hospital on Monday this week. For various reasons, we didn’t go to the hospital as expected, and Monday evening mom showed up here with the little guy who looked and acted a whole lot better. She told us that because she had no money to pay for his care, his treatment was stopped on Friday, he was discharged and mom’s ID card was taken for security against the hospital bill. They’d been in Mbanga without food for the weekend, until mom was able to borrow about 1500 CFA ($3) for a taxi ride back to Mangamba. She was very grateful for our help getting him to the hospital, and hoped we could help with the bill. So, Tuesday, today, mom and toddler went back to Mbanga Hospital with our folks who were stationed there for clinicals. The bill was paid and prescriptions were filled for 10,000 CFA ($20), and mom has her ID card again. This is how the system works here – pay as you go for inpatient and outpatient medical care, and if/when you have no more money, treatment stops then. We have heard of cases where the treatment was stopped but the patient was not allowed to leave the hospital until the bill was paid – sometimes it’s a few weeks before the family can raise the “ransom.” There is no national insurance, and private health insurance is scarce and inadequate. We won’t make that mistake again – when we can’t accompany someone who we hospitalize, we’ll assure that the payment and return ride are arranged.

January 17, 2011

2011-01-17T05:13:00.012-07:00

--Monday. Last night we learned that the plan to work all day today in Dibombari has been changed because Ruth hasn’t been able to contact the school principal – we’re going to Kake instead. Because of vehicle and distance logistics, no one is able to work in Mbanga hospital today. All but 2, one sick and one caregiver, went to the school where we were delighted to meet the Chief and Super Chief of the village who came to meet us and observe. Two years ago they met with Friends of WEH offering land to build a WEH Vocational Training Center. Danielle is a loyal WEH volunteer who helps with the children in this region.
--Malaria Prevention, First Aid, and HIV/AIDS Prevention were presented to 4 classrooms serially. Only 3 WEH children attend this school – they alone were to have health screenings. However, the teachers referred many more kids, and while health education was going on, we were very busy assessing about 20 kids! Most were healthy and well. One 9 yo boy had a very loud heart murmur which at first we worried about, wondering how to find money for a pediatric cardiology consult and probably corrective surgery – then we learned that for all his life the boy’s father, one of the Kake school teachers, has been taking his son for medical care and he is saving for the surgery. Whew! A little boy about 5 years old was obviously ill, weak and lethargic, heart rate 140, temp 100.9. Through an interpreter and his 9 yo brother we learned that he has a twin sister and an 11 yo sister who is their surrogate mother; their mother’s whereabouts is unknown and the father apparently is a ne’er-do-well who is seriously neglectful of their needs. The teachers told us that these kids are consistently weak and listless – and we learned that they’d only had gari, a thin gruel of casaba and water, because they had no food or money. We fed the little boy from our daypacks, gathered more food for all the kids to take with them. The interpreter told us that he could tell by their skin that all 4 kids have AIDS and malaria and they needed to be tested at once. We then got the WEH social worker involved and her advice was not to test them because a) they had no responsible adult available to consent, and b) they have such poor social support, thus if they were positive it would worsen their plight because they’d be even more fearful of their fate. The social worker will find their father to explore further with him, and take steps to advocate for them within the limits of the helping system and available resources.
--Sam had a great surprise - Richard, one of the interpreters, gave him a bag like men carry in the Northwest Province, "now you're a real Cameroon man!"

--The teachers gave us a jug of fresh palm wine in thanks for the health education and assessments. It had a little bite, tasted a little tangy, and I'm sure it grows on you if you're here where its readily available.

--In the late afternoon Joe and I walked up the dusty road to the local “bar” where we bought locally brewed 24 oz beers, “33” brand, for about $1 each, and walked home slowly savoring them and talking with village folk along the way. Here the mist hangs over the treetops all day, every day – but it cleared away and the moon was bright and almost full, lighting our path.
--Each evening the Linfield group, Joe and I have a debriefing session to end the day. Tonight we talked about all the children we’ve identified to date with significant chronic medical and social needs. During clinics when we’ve found acutely ill kids, we’ve transported them and a parent to the hospital and paid for their care. We’re keeping a list of those in obvious but not acute need. We’re realizing that a) we don’t know the cost of consults and follow-up care, and b) paying for a specialist medical consult for each of them will not be enough, and we won’t be here to know the outcome of the consults, ie, their needs based on the recommendations generated from those consults. Probably the nursing students will leave WEH with a detailed list of names and the problems that were identified, and the unspent money that they raised to help with medical needs. Before they came to Cameroon, this class raised nearly $10,000 to help impoverished WEH kids get necessary medical care, and for mosquito nets..
--Francois is the live-in caretaker at the Titi’s house in Mangamba. He is wonderfully helpful with myriad tasks, large and small. Recently he approached some of us asking if we could diagnose his lumps – we could, they are probably fatty lipomas which are a typically benign but may be disfiguring and uncomfortable. He’d learned that the local health center could excise them for 10,000 CFA (about $20) each, but he didn’t have any money. Yesterday he talked about his 10 yo child who was sick, he was worried and couldn’t do anything. At the conclusion of the evening we invited Francois to our meeting; he was overwhelmed with our gift of money which is probably more than he had in years. It's not near enough for all he does for us.

January 16, 2011

2011-01-16T05:12:00.004-07:00

--Sunday morning, everyone slept later than expected so we scurried to get to church on time. We arrived as people were leaving the early Douala service, just in time for the French service. Two women’s choirs and the youth praise group sang, and the sermon was shorter than usual, but it was clear that the message was powerful. As we’ve seen other Sundays, everyone was dressed up in beautiful African styles and fabrics. We like the custom of every parishioner walking/dancing to the front to give their offering, the money is counted immediately and the total is announced. It felt as if our gift was indeed given to God.
--Sunday dinner at the Titi’s is always wonderful, and it was. After feasting on fresh salad greens with shrimp and freshly baked crusty bread, followed by a main course of rice, ratatouille, grilled chicken, spicy beans, and dessert of freshly picked pineapple, we were ready for naps. After a long snooze, we were back at the internet café trying to add photos to the blog pages, but the program said “no way!” so we’re still hoping to post a lot of pictures.

--The Linfield group arrived for supper on the way back from Kribi – they’re all sunburned and happy that they were able to reach their people at home by phone and/or e-mail. Joe and I packed up and joined the gang for a ride back to Mangamba, feeling rested and ready for a full week. Its hard to believe that we’ve been in Cameroon for almost 3 weeks already!
--Joe has had a tummy bug twice since we arrived, and now some of the Linfield group
are needing to be close to a bathroom. We have lots of nursing knowledge and skill, lots of medications for symptom management, and we’re doing ok. But the anxiety level is a little higher – no one wants to be sick or need medical care, they have other things to do.

January 15, 2011

2011-01-15T05:11:00.004-07:00

January 15, 2011
Saturday. Last night we made plans to get up early and be at to Cicam, the African fabrics store when they opened at 8 am, and then go to Limbe for the day. However, as happens so often, the day didn’t unfold this way. Raphael needed to go to his palm oil tree plantation in Compina, and none of us relished another long day in the car, so we stayed in town.
--We arrived at Cicam mid-morning, easily found too many things we really liked, and made our purchases – Carol and Sam found prints for shirts and a dress, and I left the store with a heavy bag containing 10 6-yard lengths of bright patterns. I’m in hopes that Ruth’s seamstress, Marisol, will be available to make a couple of traditional Cameroonian dresses for me, and the rest of my treasure will have to wait till we’re home in Arizona, and then I’ll have a great time with it.
--The rest of the day was slow and easy. The Titi’s internet service has been down for a week, so we walked to a neighborhood internet café where we caught up with and responded to e-mails, checked our bank balances, and I posted blog entries for the past week. We visited, napped, watched CNN news, and had a very pleasant day.

--Family friends arrived with their young daughter as we were finishing supper. Robert has prepared a favorite dessert from a tropical fruit that grows on the trees in the yard here. With mom's permission, I offered little Sarah some of the dessert - apparently its not a taste she's acquired yet, but I know she will!

January 14, 2010

2011-01-14T05:11:00.008-07:00

--Last night we’d agreed that we’d all be ready by 9 am for a day trip to Kribi. 9 am came and went, we sat down to breakfast at 10, and finally at 11 all was ready and we piled in the Land Rover with a picnic lunch. Going through the east side of Douala was as interesting and congested as we’d remembered – the streets were packed with a sea of humanity, goods, big trucks, little motorcycles, all going every which way. We emerged to miles of sparsely settled countryside, then we crossed a big river, admired the rusty old bridge built 80-90 years ago by the Germans, and we were in Edea where the Titis lived and Raphael worked his way up the AluCam corporate ladder. We turned south, again in rural countryside, and drove another hour. We turned off on a rough and winding side road that took us to a beautiful clearing with a few small houses on a bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean! Years ago, before any development had started, the Titis bought this property and built a seaside home.

--We walked a short distance, took off our shoes and waded along the shoreline. There were several weathered dug-out canoes on the beach, men repairing nets, two canoes with fishermen were visible out on the horizon, it was still and beautiful. All of a sudden we looked up and a table was being carried down the hill to the beach on a man’s head! He was followed by someone carrying chairs and the cooler - this was the picnic spot!!!
--The table was placed under a large tree, covered with a tablecloth, then drinks and sandwiches – but first, in turn, Raphael poured water on our hands, we soaped and rinsed them, and helped him. Then we took our places, joined hands, and gave thanks for all our many blessings, and tried to absorb the majesty around us.

--After lunch we waded, picked up shells, and then, reluctant to leave, we went back to the car. A drive through Kribi brought us to another clearing where we were immediately mobbed by several boys clamoring that we hire them as our guides to see the Lobe River Falls and take a tour up the river in dugout canoes to see some pygmies. We declined, and walked the beach till we had a good view of the falls – a dramatic sight. A group of boys were playing soccer on the beach and they intermittently took a dip, then back to their game. Curio stands were abundant, and it was fun looking at necklaces, calabash bowls, clothing, paintings, etc – we were tempted until while bartering the original prices suddenly were higher. We kept all our money and the merchants kept their goods.

-- We were all quiet on the way home – we’d had a full day, seen a lot, and were absorbed with our thoughts and feelings – our hearts were very full and glad.

January 13, 2011

2011-01-13T10:32:00.002-07:00

--We were up, fed, and ready for patients when they began to appear at 8:30. Everyone worked nonstop, and suddenly it was 12:30, well after our planned closing time.

--The last of the patients were evaluated, meds given with instructions, supplies packed away, and we loaded on the bus heading for lunch at Chez Titi in Douala. Afterward the Linfield group left for a long weekend at the beach in Kribi. Joe, Carol, Sam and I are with Ruth and Raphael for the weekend, looking forward to quiet R&R.
--It’s a real treat to be in an air-conditioned house watching TV! We’ve come to really appreciate the international news on CNN, and Joe thinks he can connect us when we’re home again. We’re catching up on major events around the world, including the tragic shootings in Tucson..

January 12, 2011

2011-01-12T10:32:00.001-07:00

--The plan today is to do assessments and treatments with Mangamba people till mid-morning, then move down the road to the primary and secondary schools in Miang.
--The first customers were here by 8:30, a full hour before we were ready. We stumbled around with cups of coffee and cereal bowls, finding our supplies and deciding where to set up the assessment stations. By 9:30 we were in full swing and saw more elderly than young people, a nice change. In their high 70s and early 80s, these hardy folk are still going to their fields daily to care for their crops. Predictably, the most common complaint was arthritis-related aches and pains.

--On time, we arrived at the Miang schools. I wasn’t able to see the health education activities because I was busily helping with assessments of 21 very cute 4 and 5 year olds. Most of them were happy, healthy and very curious about these white visitors. But, we’ve dubbed this “Yukky Ear Day” due to the nasty infections we found and treated.

--One of the teachers was albino. We've seen several albino people in our travels.
--Back at home in Mangamba, we’re all kind of stir-crazy. One end of the living room was transformed to a gym, several went out for walks despite the very humid and hot weather, and others headed for the local bar. The bar is a board stand on the main street under a huge tree filled with at least a hundred hanging bird nests, loud contemporary Cameroon music fills the air – it’s a popular hang-out.
--We ran out of clean clothes, and Joe saved us by doing our laundry in a bucket and hanging it to dry on every available surface. It will be so wonderful to wear a fresh shirt tomorrow! Thank goodness, the power has been on for two days so we have water, lights, and power for the coffee maker and the refrigerator gives us cool drinking water.

January 11, 2011

2011-01-11T10:31:00.033-07:00

--After the past days of long waits and false starts, today at a private school in Kotto Up we did what we came to Cameroon to do – we saw patients! This school was the perfect first site – it’s the only Anglophone school in a huge area, thus the children speak African English which decreased our need for translators. These are immigrant children whose families have come here from Nigeria and northern Cameroon to work in the fields and palm plantations. When the Cameroon government declined the parents' request for an Anglophone school in this Francophone region, they found the materials, built it, found and hired capable and committed teachers

--Although the game plan was to assess 2-3 WEH children while the rest of the school was participating in health education activities, there were 5 from this school and a teacher sent for the other 20 from the building next door! We saw them all – mostly healthy and well, a few coughs and runny noses, and one stoically sick boy who we sent to the hospital for further evaluation and treatment. Later we learned that he was given several prescriptions for what probably is a complicated urinary tract infection. Glad we sent him!
This girl patiently let several people look in her ear to practice ear exams.

--Dinner back in Mangamba was a delicious African soup that I love every time its served – I haven’t the faintest idea what the seasons are, but I am to find out.

Bus, Bonaberi and Douala Traffic, Francis

2011-01-10T12:01:00.001-07:00

January 10, 2011

2011-01-10T10:31:00.067-07:00

--The days and nights are almost equal length, sundown about 6:30 pm and sunrise about 6:30 am, mornings are refreshingly cool. This morning the mist is heavy with the distant trees silhouetted against the brightening sky. Morning coffee on the veranda is sublime.

--We were expected, and when we drove up the kids came spilling out of their classrooms to greet us.

In a few short minutes the principal, Mr. Moukoulele, had the younger grades divided into two groups - half the kids stayed inside for First Aid, and the others went out for the Malaria Prevention game.

-The First Aid group learned the song about hand-washing and practiced by washing glitter “microbes” off their hands with a demonstration that soap was necessary to remove them because the “microbes” were still visible after washing with water only. With the help of “diarrhea dolls” the kids learned about dehydration as an effect of vomiting and diarrhea which are the result of microbes in food and water; they learned how to make and use oral rehydration with sugar, salt and water. Last they learned about wound care – cleaning and dressing “wounds” of red paint on their plastic wrapped arms. The objective was to teach the benefits of preventing infection introduction and transmission. The principal and teacher participated, and afterwards they were given a First Aid kit for the school.
--Meanwhile the other group of students met in the schoolyard to hear a story about a little girl who was bitten by a malaria mosquito and came down with malaria. They played a game in which some children were designated mosquitoes that chased and “bit” other kids. If a child was bit, they found the designated “doctors” who gave them “medicine” for their malaria, they could go to the free zone under a mosquito net They chased until everyone had either found refuge and avoided the mosquitoes under the net, or until those bitten had been treated and went on to the net. The objective was to teach them the value of sleeping under a mosquito net to avoid the anopheles mosquitoes which carry malaria and are out during the night hours.

--There are two more health education groups, HIV/AIDS and Understanding the Female Cycle – these will be presented to the older students at the secondary schools.
--We expected to meet the chief in Mangamba in the late afternoon so we went directly home - he was back in Douala. This visit is a formality that is expected, so probably before we leave we will meet with him and introduce ourselves. In the meantime, we and the village residents are encountering each other during walks, etc.

January 9, 2011

2011-01-09T10:30:00.003-07:00

--I woke again to the morning coolness hearing birds and roosters – its good to be in Mangamba. A brisk shower, and morning coffee on the cool veranda overlooking the neighborhood. Slowly folks began to appear, talking about what time church starts, when breakfast was expected, and what today’s adventures might be.
--The church bells rang and we jumped up, but they were announcing the other church so we settled for another half hour and munched. The same bells rang again, this time for the Cameroon Evangelical Church.

--In Mangamba this church was founded by German missionaries in the late-1800s. After World War I the Germans lost Cameroon, the missionaries left, and the church building deteriorated. When it could no longer be used, services were held in a make-shift building made of corrugated tin from the original church roof.
--About 20 years ago Raphael and Ruth gave a new church to the village of Mangamba, it stands next to the foundations of the original church building. It is their gift to God and to Raphael’s home village, where he eventually will come home. Today we were privileged to worship in this church; portions of the service were translated from French and Douala to English for our benefit. The announcements said we’ll have a Mangamba clinic day - our presence has not escaped notice, people are very curious about us.
--In the early evening we were privileged to be visited by M’Boule Nseke Frederick, the old man of the village who he said he’s 84 years old but we think he’s probably older. Through translators he told the oral history of his Bonampaco lineage, his understanding of the colonial era and more recent history of Mangamba, with his family connections interwoven back through many, many generations. This gentleman is Raphael’s uncle.
--The power has been off for 24 hours – thus, no A/C, water, lights, phone service. The village has a pump well that’s a Godsend – buckets of water down the toilets…. We city folks are holding up well, everyone is cheerful and philosophically talking about WAWA, West Africa Wins Again.

--We did not see the chief today. We were told he was in Douala and we should watch for his car to drive past, thus to know he had returned. We didn’t see it.

January 8, 2011

2011-01-08T10:29:00.003-07:00

Saturday
--Our room is straightforward – mattress on the floor, mosquito net suspended above it by a string across the room, open suitcases lining the walls. I woke up to the songs of early morning birds and roosters just outside our window – we’re really in the village! We slept comfortably – doors open wide to let the breeze in, and by morning we were glad that we included two sheets when we packed – one under us and one to cover up.

--Because plans are always made to be changed, plans for today have changed. Instead of seeing patients here this morning, we’ll see them here this afternoon. The funeral is this morning for the brother of the grieving woman who we met yesterday. Its inappropriate to work during a funeral, so we’ll hold clinics afterward.
--This unexpected time is a welcome surprise – we’ve unpacked our supplies, re-hung some mosquito nets, had showers, survived our first power outage, and now we’re waiting for Ruth, Carol, Sam, four WEH volunteers, and our lunch to arrive. About 2 pm our lunch arrived sans entourage – tuna on long baguettes and a big stalk of several dozen bananas – yum.
--I've unpacked the "pharmacy" - our medications were purchased with money that has been donated to Friends of WEH. The Board members voted to use some of these funds to purchase medications from MAP International, a pharmaceuticals program that receives quantities of donated drugs from the major pharmaceuticals manufacturers, and makes them available to small projects such as ours. These medications will be used to treat problems that the students identify when they assess the WEH children. We’re ready to see patients.

--About 4:30 Ruth, Carol, Sam and Doris arrived with our supper. Abruptly it was decided that we should tour Mbanga Hospital this late Saturday afternoon. By 5 pm we were on the bus, rode for an hour, detoured to to Kotto Up where Ruth hoped to find a man who would be a good interpreter – he wasn’t around. We then drove on to Mbanga Hospital with hopes of touring then. The nurse in charge didn’t know if our letter of introduction and authorization to work there had been received by her Administrator so we were denied access. Back on the bus, we rode to Muyuka for a pit stop in, then a stop to buy kerosene for lanterns we’ll appreciate when the power goes off, and on home to Mangamba.
--Supper was yummy – Fulani Beef with rice and beans, baguettes, big salad, followed by freshly picked papaya and bananas. Carol, Sam, Doris, and Ruth left for Douala and the rest of us turned in. They’ll be back tomorrow morning with our breakfast, and we’re to visit the local chief.

January 7, 2011

2011-01-07T10:28:00.084-07:00

January 7, 2011
--Linfield has hired a bus which will take us to all the schools, hospitals, and other sites.

Our Faithful Bus

We, with all our luggage and supplies, were loaded and drove away about 11 am, later than the proposed 9 am departure, but stuff happens and we’re in Africa. We picked up 2 more passengers on our way out of Douala. We made it through the city and across the very congested Wouri River Bridge more easily than usual, admired and appreciated the greatly improved main road through Bonaberi, and drove out through the countryside for an hour till we turned off on a rough dirt road. We stopped to visit a family at their home, then on to Dibombari where we met the Prefecture (aka Mayor) who gave us permission to return another day to see patients there.
--Back to the highway and along to Souza where our driver didn’t want to take the bus down the rough road to the hospital, but he did. This hospital is tiny, understaffed and undersupplied, it does not have any running water and the electricity is notoriously unreliable. But, the staff are dedicated, hardworking, and caring. Somehow healthy babies are delivered, injuries and systemic infections are all managed. They also run busy weekly outpatient antenatal follow-up and general health clinics. This one of the clincials sites.

Souza Hospital

Souza Hospital Delivery Room

Happy Family with New Arrival

Weekly Antenatal Clinic Waiting Room

--Back on the bus, we drove down another long dusty road heading for Mangamba which will be our home base until late January. Twice along the way we saw funeral preparations – lots of chairs set out in neat rows, palms standing in the road as flags, people dressed in black.
--At last we arrived in Mangamba! The house is surrounded by a high block wall with a heavy metal gate that allows vehicles in and out. We got off the bus to lighten it and thus raise its low center, but that was not enough because after an hour of backing, trying again, placing boards strategically to raise the wheels, etc., the bus made it in the gate but damaged the air conditioner coming over the high center. A flurry of phone calls (thank goodness for cells!) and a repair is in the works.

Chez Titi-Manyaka in Mangamba, our home for 3 weeks

--Everyone’s luggage was handed down from the top, we hauled things inside, and everyone chose a room and roommate, and we began settling in, including figuring how to hang the mosquito nets over our beds without making any holes in the walls or ceilings. Lunch arrived - to protect us against nasty tummy bugs of which there may be a great plenty in locally prepared foods, all our meals will be prepared at Ruth’s home in Douala and delivered to us in Mangamba. While we gulped down our sandwiches, Ruth told us that we would have a surprise about 4 pm.
--Joe and I happened to be standing with Ruth when a local woman who seemed very bewildered appeared in our midst. The woman’s brother had died and his body had just arrived in the village, we offered our condolences, and she disappeared.
--Then we heard drumming outside and went to look over the upstairs porch rail. It was a little past 4 pm. Below us in the courtyard a group of boys were gathered near a man who sat on a low stool drumming a traditional log drum! A masked figure, caped completely in long palm fronds, appeared and danced until the singing and drumming stopped, the music began again and he danced again, and again, and again. People from the village drifted in, another drum joined the first. More dancers. A line of men and boys wearing fabric well-secured around their hips, danced in a circle. An older woman joined the line. Then another, and another and more. Palm wine poured from large plastic jugs flowing freely among the musicians and dancers. The dancers invited the students to join the merriment – it was amazing to see!

Some of the students watching the dancers

Dancing to Singing and the Village Drum and

Barbara with our first patient

--Darkness came, and I sat on the stairs dreamily watching. Ruth’s voice said, “He’s your first customer.” I was holding a toddler who surprised me with his cuddliness. “He’s been throwing up for 2 days.” His grandmother answered questions about him. Then the only right thing to do was to get the medications from our supplies that would help him feel better. A flurry of searching generated liquid Tylenol, cough medicine and Pedialyte which I taught his mother and grandmother how to use. His young mother appeared and presented his baby sister to me, “what about her, she’s sick, too.” One of the students helped me assess the baby, and together we taught mom and grandma how to share her big brother’s medications between the two kids. Promising to return if the kids didn’t begin to improve, they disappeared into the darkness.

--After we went inside for our supper, the drumming and dancing slowed, then stopped, and this wonderful party was over.

January 6, 2011

2011-01-06T10:28:00.000-07:00

--Today is Betsy’s birthday, and it felt like mine when I opened e-mail from you! I’m thinking a lot about everyone at home today – I expect all is well? It was a nice surprise to find an email confirming Judd’s AKC registration; hopefully Seven’s is in the mail – one of the many, many details before we left home was to register our puppies.
-- We (12 nursing students, their 2 faculty, David, Ruth, Carol, Sam, Joe, me) have met a few times to talk about everyone’s expectations regarding what we’ll do with our time, talents, health teaching tools and medical supplies. We’ve talked about our respective roles. We asked and answered a lot of questions. A tentative clinic site schedule has been devised. By now we can put everyone’s names and faces together correctly. Everyone has found the neighborhood Super Marché, and we’re all armed with snack foods. We feel ready and eager to be on our way tomorrow morning.

January 5, 2011

2011-01-05T10:27:00.000-07:00

--The Linfield nursing students and their faculty are here, very tired and very excited about the coming 3 weeks. They’re starting to reset themselves – its 9 hours earlier at their home in Portland. After being here a few days we “old folks” from Arizona are reasonably well adjusted, and since the students are “kids,” we assume they’ll adapt easily. Internet permitting, I’ve been following the weather at home in Lakeside and I wish I could send some of our warmth your way - we’d welcome some of your cold.

January 4, 2011

2011-01-04T13:15:00.003-07:00

January 3, 2011

2011-01-03T16:26:00.003-07:00

Monday
Today David addressed various administrative matters by e-mail with Linfield; they are still in Portland. Joe, Sam, Carol and I walked around the neighborhood and found a grocery story where we bought things we'll enjoy at home and more immediately for lunches when we're away from town.
--In Fall 2008 The Friends of WEH raised money and purchased a 4-wheel drive truck which was shipped to Cameroon. WEH staff use the truck for activities related to providing for the orphans who live throughout the Littoral Province.

--Today I rode in it! Its a very nice truck that rides comfortably and holds a lot of cargo - just what we'd hoped for.

--We took about 20 mattresses to the Titi's house in Mangamba in preparation for the Linfield students et al who will be living there. The 3 weeks that we'll be living in Mangamba promises to be an extraordinarily rich experience.
--First though, more preparations. Tomorrow we'll buy mosquito nets and figure out how to hang them without damaging the walls or ceilings in the Titi's beautiful home.

January 2, 2011

2011-01-02T16:52:00.000-07:00

Sunday.
We were in church for a full 3 hours that seemed like 15 minutes! It was Communion Sunday, and the President of the Evangelical Church of Cameroon was the featured pastor. Sam was introduced as a visiting pastor, Papa Hosler, and he charmed everyone with his down-to-earth remarks about sharing our love for one another and then leading us in singing "Jesus Loves Me!" The form of worship in the Evangelical Church of Cameroon flows much like the Presbyterian forebearers started here some 150 years ago, and since this is a Francophone area, its all done in French. There was the wonderful singing and dancing, beautiful black-skinned and brightly dressed people, everyone greeting this new year in extra good form. --Afterward, back at the Titis, we found the rabbits on our dinner plates that we'd met on Friday afternoon when their big pink eyes were peeking out of a very large basket. They were delicious - a treat we seldom have on our US tables.

January 1, 2011

2011-01-01T17:51:00.001-07:00

--New Year's Day everyone slept and slept, then up for breakfast with rich Cameroonian coffee, and more visiting. Our holiday dinner was an amazing and delicious African feast of couscous with several kinds of braised and roasted vegetables, chicken, pork and lamb, followed by wedges of freshly picked pineapple - yum! This may be the meal that I do for you at Our Saviour - so, so very good and really pretty.
--We've all taken to the newest member of the Titi family - Flinn is an 8-week old Rottweiler puppy who arrived yesterday. He's very sweet and loving, but he hid under my skirt when he was startled by a loud noise. He plays and romps and runs - and we have to learn to give him commands in French, so we practiced "arrett!" Carol looks forward to doing some obedience training with him, and this is a good possibility since she'll be here till the end of March.
--We all loved the slow and easy day watching international news, visiting, dozing...

December 31, 2011

2010-12-31T14:48:00.004-07:00

--Access to the internet is iffy - on again, off again, unpredictable at best. Between here at the Titi's home and the nearby internet cafe, we'll be in touch until Friday morning, January 8. Thereafter it will be much, much more sporadic because we'll move to Mangamba for the next 3 weeks, where there is no service at all. We'll be in touch on days that we're in Douala or elsewhere with connections.

--None of us thought we'd make it to midnight on New Year's Eve, but we happily proved ourselves oh! so wrong! We all dressed in white as is the custom here, to welcome the New Year. By 9 pm things were starting to happen, and by 10pm the church was filled to overflowing.
--We knew that David Groff, with Linfield from Portland, would arrive tonight, and voila!, there he was with us. Here's Sam Hosler -

--The atmosphere was impossible to describe justly - people were all so beautiful, well-rehearsed choirs sang, prayers and spontaneous dancing were wondrous, and suddenly, "Bon Annee!" it was midnight!! Happy New Year! Lots of hugging, cheering, and out we went to the churchyard where a program of more music and food waited. Although it would go on till dawn, at 3:30 am we couldn't hold our eyes open any longer,...

--New Year's Day everyone slept and slept, then up for breakfast with rich Cameroonian coffee, and more visiting. Our holiday dinner was an amazing and delicious African feast of couscous with several kinds of braised and roasted vegetables, chicken, pork and lamb, followed by wedges of freshly picked pineapple - yum! This may be the meal that I do for you at Our Saviour - so, so very good and really pretty.
--The morning of Sunday, January 2, we were in church for a full 3 hours that seemed like 15 minutes! It was Communion Sunday, and the President of the Evangelical Church of Cameroon was the featured pastor. Sam was introduced as a visiting pastor, Papa Hosler, and he charmed everyone with his down-to-earth remarks about sharing our love for one another and then leading us in singing "Jesus Loves Me!" The form of worship in the Evangelical Church of Cameroon flows much like the Presbyterian forebearers started here some 150 years ago, and since this is a Francophone area, its all done in French. There was the wonderful singing and dancing, beautiful black-skinned and brightly dressed people, everyone greeting this new year in extra good form. Afterward, we found the rabbits on our dinner plates that we'd met on Friday afternoon when their big pink eyes were peeking out of a very large basket. They were delicious - a treat we seldom have on our US tables.
--Today, Monday January 3, David addressed administrative matters with Linfield, still in Portland, via e-mail. Joe, Sam, Carol and I walked around the neighborhood and found a grocery story where we bought things we'll enjoy at home and more immediately for lunches when we're away from town.
--In fall 2008 The Friends of WEH raised money and purchased a 4-wheel drive truck which was shipped to Cameroon to help WEH staff providing for the orphans. Today I rode in it! Its a very nice truck that rides comfortably and holds a lot of cargo - just what we'd hoped for. We took mattresses to the Titi's house in Mangamba in preparation for the Linfield students' use. The 3 weeks that we'll be living in Mangamba promises to be an extraordinarily rich experience for each and all of us. First though, more preparations. Tomorrow we'll buy mosquito nets and figure out how to hang them without damaging the walls or ceilings in the Titi's beautiful h

December 30, 2010

2010-12-30T17:23:00.000-07:00

December 29, 2010

2010-12-29T17:25:00.003-07:00

--We stayed at the Foyer du Marin for our first 2 nights in Cameroon. Ruth and Raphael had been in Canada for the previous 6 weeks, and they arrived home in Douala only one day before we arrived - they needed a little time to settle in at home. We were happy to give them space, and felt recklessly liberated when we took an unchaperoned walk around the neighborhood.
--The Foyer du Marin is situated in the Akwa District of Douala - this is where many banks and development agencies are located. It was comfortable and very pleasant, particularly the outdoor dining room which we thoroughly enjoyed for its charm and for the excellent food. To our delight, one of the waiters was very comfortable with English and kindly gave helpful orientation and suggestions.
--We relaxed, beginning to adapt our sleep-wake schedules. Arizona is 8 hours earlier than Cameroon - we need a couple of days to catch up.

December 28, 2010

2010-12-28T17:45:00.001-07:00

--We’re here! I panicked when I discovered that my phone didn’t make it to the Phoenix airport with me, we have no idea where it parted company with us – hopefully it fell out of my purse in my car and we’ll find it was patiently napping while we were gone. But, this is why you didn’t hear from me before we left.
--Our trip from Phoenix to Douala was pretty uneventful. After 3 long flights in 24 hours, we arrived in Douala about 8:30 pm on the 28th. Getting out of the airport was predictably hectic, but $90 and some very helpful Department of Tourism representatives got us past Customs without opening our bags.
--Ruth and a waiting car whisked us away to her home where the staff greeted us ever so warmly and we found a beautiful supper waiting for us. Then we were taken to our charming and comfortable hotel where we’ve spent the past two nights. Now we’ll be with Ruth and Raphael for about a week, then we’ll move to their village home where we and the Linfield nursing students will stay for 3 weeks doing clinics in several villages.

December 27, 2010

2010-12-27T17:12:00.000-07:00

We flew and flew and flew. We left Phoenix Sky Harbor at 1:30 pm and arrived in Newark, New Jersey about 6:30 pm, well after dark. After waiting awhile, we boarded Swiss Airlines and headed across the Atlantic to Zurich, Switzerland - Sam was more than excited to finally be on the land of his distant forebearers. We felt compelled to toast this momentous occasion, and found an airport brewpub that fit our requirements.

2010-12-26T20:56:00.002-07:00

December 26, 2010.

--After months of increasingly intense preparations, we are officially on our way back to the Littoral Province in Cameroon. Tonight Joe and I are in a hotel in Phoenix, eager to be up in the morning to meet Carol and Sam Hosler, to check those big heavy bags in at Sky Harbor, and settle in for a long flight. We and our 12 bags will land in Douala at 7:10 pm December 28.

--We've been vaccinated against a host of tropical diseases, we have medications to ward off anything that gets past the vaccines, our bags have been weighed and reweighed many times to assure that we're really within the airlines' limits, we're armed with a generous supply of American toilet paper, permethrin, first aid supplies, vitamins, and 100# of prescription medicaments that we'll use in clinics. Joe and Sam will be our official photographers, Carol will help them with lots of go-fetchit tasks and hours of health teaching. We'll be working with a class of senior students from the Linfield College-Department of Nursing who will do health assessments with about 650-700 widows and orphans who are served by Women, Environment and Health (WEH). As a Nurse Practitioner, my role will be to treat the ailments identified by the students - all those generous gifts of money, vitamins, first aid supplies, etc. are about to be put to very good use.
--When the students return to Portland on January 26, Joe and I will join Njoke, Director of Heritage Tours-Cameroon for a month-long tour. Since we've decided to be volunteers here, we want to know a whole lot more about this country. I'm particularly hopeful that I will have the good fortune to meet Rev. Dr. Godlove Ngdongdeh with the Cameroon Baptist Convention-Health Board when we're in Bamenda - I did some e-mail consulting r/t psychotropic medications for him a couple of years ago.

February 4, 2008 - Home again!

2009-02-04T12:40:00.001-07:00

February 2, 2009 - Methodist Church in Yaounde

2009-02-02T20:03:00.000-07:00

February 1, 2009 - Distributing leftover meds at Mbanga Hospital, Kassafro

2009-02-01T20:04:00.013-07:00

After the students finished in Cameroon there were leftover medications and medical supplies. The students had hoped to visit the HIV/AIDS residential program, Kassafro, in Penja, but there simply was not enough time for this visit. I sorted the meds and supplies to give to 4 programs: Kassafro, Miang Health Center, Mangamba Health Center, and the Souza Hospital. Then Ruth, Joe, Carol and I made a final trip to distribute them. We also stopped at Kotto Up to deliver some food bags to WEH members.

January 23-31, 2009 - Marche de Flor for gifts - "Mon Fils"

2009-01-31T20:12:00.001-07:00

None of us could go home without buying African souvenirs. I've already bought LOTS of bright cotton fabrics and had dresses made for me and shirts for Joe. The Marche de Fleurs is the perfect place to find all those other things: batik pictures and tablecloths, carvings and statuary, jewelry, games, and fresh flowers galore - and there were little outdoor cafes where we could get charcoaled fish with plantain and rice, or beans and rice, or spicy grilled chicken skewers, peanuts, and other things we couldn't recognize - all of it street food - No! no! Carol and I settled for a beer and comforted ourselves with hopes that we'd bartered well for our purchases.
I really do appreciate Ruth's help bartering for 20 carved ebony elephants. David, it smells like something died in the box that I got for such a great price - no wonder that guy sold it cheap! The batik tablecloths are wonderful, and Carol and I are totally absorbed with the board game - too bad we don't have endless money to play with.

January 28, 2009 - Kakki Chief visit at Titi-Manyka home - wants Vocational Center; dtr seropositive; dtr to become WEH soldier

2009-01-28T20:14:00.000-07:00

The Traditional Chief of Kakki surprised Ruth and David last night. When they arrived at his village to deliver some food bags, the villagers were seated and welcomed them with a traditional village call of welcome. The Chief spoke at length about how important WEH is to his village. He spoke of the planned Vocational Center and invited WEH to build on land that he would donate for that purpose.

Today he visited the Titi-Manyaka home with his daughter, a young woman who has AIDS and who has just volunteered to work as a WEH volunteer in Kakki which is their village. She hopes that by working for WEH, there may be some help with her health expenses - in Cameroon the AIDS medications are provided free by the government, but all labs and other related expenses are not covered. They wondered if WEH could help her in exchange for her volunteer services with WEH.

January, 6-7, 12-14, 21-21 - Njittcha Hotel, Mbanga

2009-01-21T18:26:00.001-07:00

We stayed in the Njitcha Hotel in Mbanga several nights so's not to have to make the long trip to and from Douala each day since we were working in villages in the Mbanga area.

It is situated right next door to the Mbanga Hospital which made it convenient when one of the students came down sick with severe nausea and vomiting - could it be malaria? something she ate? the hotel food? We had several nights without electricity, the water was variable, and once the hotel was completely without water and electricity for 24 hours - YUK.

The last morning there was the morning after 24 hours without power and water. We were astonished when the manager brought a basket with cakes that his wife baked for us that morning and then asked us all to meet at the front porch because he had a photographer waiting!

January 16-17, 2009 - Limbe, Buea

2009-01-17T20:00:00.011-07:00

After working hard the past two weeks, we've decided that we deserve a treat - we hoped to see 13,000' Mt. Cameroon. The students are going to be in Limbe to play in the ocean and a special meal as guests of a Cameroonian family. Ruth arranged a driver and off we went, traveling northwesterly headed for Limbe and some beachtime.

We crossed the ------------ River which divides the Anglophone and Francophone regions of Cameroon.

The Weltys had encouraged me to meet with the Cameroon Baptist Convention Health Board HIV/AIDS Program staff in Mutengene, and I was more than eager for this opportunity. We drove into the CBCHB compound and were warmly greeted by the gateman, Virgil, who knew Ruth from Alucam! He toured us around and lamented that since it was Saturday, none of the regular staff were there. We plan to return for a good visit and to spend a night in the very accommodating guest house.

As we traveled along we saw things that by now seem familiar and ordinary: partially built concrete houses that have grown dark with mildew while they wait for their owners to complete them, home furniture-building industries, curious and beautiful trees, flowers in bloom, snarled traffic including LOTS of overloaded little motorcycle taxis, cornfields growing up the slopes, and little shops lining the roadsides.

We arrived at the Atlantic Hotel and checked in with time to enjoy a Cameroonian buffet lunch - friend plantain, greens, couscous with meat and vegetables, rice, and fresh pineapple slices.

This amazing big old tree is on the hotel grounds. Our room was on the 3rd floor looking toward it and by morning we couldn't resist a visit with it.

One of the best things this weekend was the impromptu breakfast meeting with the Friends of WEH members who were together in Cameroon. We examined our mission to be supportive to WEH, and talked and talked about the Vocational Center that we will build- what rooms will be there for what purposes, and what the development sequence might be. Carol will meet with an architect before leaving Cameroon. We hope for benefactors who will donate the land.

On the way to the beach we passed offshore oil facilities. Then we drove around the lava flow from Mt. Cameroon that blocked the road a few years ago, and suddenly! there was the black sand beach! We swam and played for a long afternoon in the warm water - what a great time!

On Sunday we all enjoyed a lavish Cameroon meal as guests of the family of David ---, whose wife Mary lives near Portland and is friends with one of the nursing students. Always a nurse practitioner, I was approached by a family member, "Would you do a gynecology consultation with my niece?" I met with the young woman who showed me her health record booklet and described her problem, "Can you help me, doctor?" Well! I definitely could not accomplish what she needed - she had a very complex problem that would need surgical intervention and hormonal adjustments. I could only encourage her to have the labwork done that her gynecologist had ordered and to work closely with him. I sympathized about the probable financial burden as well as the personal discomfort that she is experiencing, and I wished her well. As I left the room I was approached by another family member who wanted a consultation. The bus was loaded and waiting, "Barbara! are you coming?" Hurriedly I discussed the second woman's concerns, found her problems were also complex, referred her to her gynecologist and wished her well.

The bus took us through narrow winding streets, into the countryside, and up the lower slopes of Mt. Cameroon to see the Cameroon Tea Estates. Then the road curved downward and we passed through Buea's historic government office district, and through the University of Cameroon-Buea Campus. Very tired by then, it was good indeed to head homeward to Douala and Chez Titi.

January 14, 2009 - Manbanga Chief's visit at Titi-Manyaka home; sceptre for David

2009-01-14T20:13:00.002-07:00

The Traditional Chief of Mangamba which is Raphael's village, paid a call at the Titi-Manyaka home this morning. He thanked the students for doing health assessments and providing medications for his people.

We all crowded into the little TV room to be introduced to him one-by-one. Then there were some flowery speeches by the Chief, by David representing Linfield, Sherry spoke for Linfield, and Ruth spoke. Then the Chief gave David a gift: a scepter that symbolizes the Chief's power. He told David that when he has this with him, he will have power as if he were the chief. David promised to take it with him wherever he goes in Abo-Land.

January 14, 2009 - Bekoko and Mujuka schools

2009-01-14T19:56:00.001-07:00

January 13, 2009 - Mbanga Mayor's Office, Kotto Up school

2009-01-13T19:36:00.002-07:00